First time posting. Just a little better than average skills for a home wood worker.
Project is a coffee table, maple construction. Arm R seal oil/urethane top coat. The top is a glue up from a single board and it's much to light (blonde) to match my other componets and another similar table. One board in the apron had a similar problem. I used a preconditioner, then a combination of Watco oil in cherry and fruitwood. A little sanding the wet oil and I got the result I was looking for.
I did the same treatment with the top. First on the back side and all went well. However, the top blotched like crazy. I did apply a light coat of precondtioner with the back side trial. I sanded the blotch off and this time did a very heavy preconditioner coat. Same result!
I sand it off yet again pending another go at fixing it. With the random orbital I use, 120, 150 and 220. Plus finishing with a light hand sanding of 220. The end grain I used 320 grit. The end grain is so polished it really didn't take much of the stain.
Below are the Options. I'd welcome other thoughts. No. 1 seems the best approach. Whatever I try will be on the back side of the top, but wood already showed me that both sides react differently.
1. Use a water dye (Homestead) . Spray the product on and don't wipe. I did this this earlier today with a Homestead color that is just a little too brown on a test board and there was no blotching. The result looked okay other than the color needs just a hint of cherry added to it. I raised the grain first. Final coat is the Arm R Seal.
2. Do it all over again with the Watco, but this time do as Bob Flexner suggests of letting the conditioner dry overnight.
3. Use a washcoat of 1 to .5 lb dewaxed shellac. Then apply the Watco.
Project is a coffee table, maple construction. Arm R seal oil/urethane top coat. The top is a glue up from a single board and it's much to light (blonde) to match my other componets and another similar table. One board in the apron had a similar problem. I used a preconditioner, then a combination of Watco oil in cherry and fruitwood. A little sanding the wet oil and I got the result I was looking for.
I did the same treatment with the top. First on the back side and all went well. However, the top blotched like crazy. I did apply a light coat of precondtioner with the back side trial. I sanded the blotch off and this time did a very heavy preconditioner coat. Same result!
I sand it off yet again pending another go at fixing it. With the random orbital I use, 120, 150 and 220. Plus finishing with a light hand sanding of 220. The end grain I used 320 grit. The end grain is so polished it really didn't take much of the stain.
Below are the Options. I'd welcome other thoughts. No. 1 seems the best approach. Whatever I try will be on the back side of the top, but wood already showed me that both sides react differently.
1. Use a water dye (Homestead) . Spray the product on and don't wipe. I did this this earlier today with a Homestead color that is just a little too brown on a test board and there was no blotching. The result looked okay other than the color needs just a hint of cherry added to it. I raised the grain first. Final coat is the Arm R Seal.
2. Do it all over again with the Watco, but this time do as Bob Flexner suggests of letting the conditioner dry overnight.
3. Use a washcoat of 1 to .5 lb dewaxed shellac. Then apply the Watco.
Maple Blotch
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