Angels

This is my latest effort, an urn made from Cherry,Walnut,Maple, Bloodwood, Alowood.

16" tall on stand by 6.5" diam. Finish is polymerized tung oil. Thanks for looking. c&c welcome

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(96f)

Angels

$23 of whitewood from Lowes?

And one of the boards was a 2x4! Ripped that into four leg blanks, then turned them on a lathe. Breadboard edge on the top. Just a single drawer, though. White knob was just what was in the shop. May get a better one later. A look at what this high priced lumber made?

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Top is: 3/4" x 16" x 27". Table stands at 31" overall. Drawer bottom has a 1/2" thick plywood panel. Sides and front have a 1/4" wide by 3/8" deep groove, so the plywood panel has rebates on those three ends. Bottom of the panel is flush with the bottom of the drawer. Witch's Brew for the first coat, straight BLO for the final coat.



Couple hours at a time in the Dungeon Shop, about all I could handle nowadays. :(

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(97d)

$23 of whitewood from Lowes?

Large curved front cabinet

I wanted to make a cabinet that would be suited for either an entertainment center or maybe a sideboard in a dining or living room. And I wanted to stretch my skills and materials by attempting some different inlays, materials and joinery. This is the result. The frame is cherry, the door inserts and drawer fronts are maple, and the top is cork flooring. The side panels, which don't show well in this photograph (sorry all of the photos are mediocre quality) are cherry frames with a rippled plastic panel designed as a backsplash inserted like a traditional floating panel. The tiles are small bronze tiles I bought from a variety of merchants, and the gold inlay is special square wire set in a groove. The doors slide side to side and are held in grooves with plastic runners. All of the drawers have false fronts attached to drawers with modified dovetail sides (detail not shown). Also not shown is the engineered oak flooring used to make the drawer bottoms - try it sometime, they are very sturdy and well finished. Because there are so many details here, I will not explain everything so if anyone has a specific question fire away. (already posted on BT3Central).

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(97d)

Large curved front cabinet

Rockwell/Delta HD Shaper + Big Power Feeder + Mobile base = BAD or OK idea?

Or, maybe it's not a big power feeder… you tell me!!



I have a 43-340 Rockwell/Delta Heavy Duty Shaper, 2HP, 3PH. It has the cast iron base. Circa '68 I think. It has two 8" cast iron extension wings, making the table 27" x 36". One 3/4" spindle (and missing a lot of other parts - it's a project). My intention is to get a mobile base for it and keep it out of the way when not in use.



I also have a Delta Power Feeder, 36-850, with a 1HP, 8 speed, 3PH motor and 4 wheels. Would this feeder be too large to mount to the shaper with the shaper being on a mobile base?



Next question. Where's the right spot to mount this feeder? On the table proper? Or, 1/2 way on the table proper and 1/2 way on a wing? Do I tap the cast iron top or through drill it and use nuts?



Here's a picture. You can click the picture to see more pictures of it.



Thanks, Todd



Rockwell Heavy Duty Shaper on Flickr

(97d)

Rockwell/Delta HD Shaper + Big Power Feeder + Mobile base = BAD or OK idea?

Epilog connection issue

Hi All,



I have an issue that is becoming worse. I hope someone can shed some light.



I have an Epilog Mini set up with a HP laptop and Corel. When I start working I send jobs to the laser without issues, however if I wait 5-10 minutes before I send another job I lose connectivity over the Ethernet. I have to unplug wait then reconnect the Ethernet connection to fix the problem. If I am not on top of it I'll send 2 or 3 jobs and they all pile up in que, then sometimes they will all go through, sometimes not. A few times I have had to shut off the Epilog and restart.



This may not be the laser, it could be the computer, but I am a little lost with the problem.



The Ethernet addresses are set up per the manual (with the aid of Epilog support when I first received the machine).



This is a new problem in the last two months.



Let me know if anybody has experienced this and found a solution.



Thank you,

Dave

(97d)

Epilog connection issue

Bosch coming out with alternative to SawStop...

It's just hitting the various tool sites. Bosch is coming out with a new jobsite saw, the ReaXX, which is supposed to provide the safety functionality of the SawStop without damaging/destroying the blade.



Bosch ReaXX Jobsite Saw



Bosch ReaXX Saw Preview



Things in the tool market are going to get interesting, especially if the tech is easier to adapt to other tools. Imagine a Bosch Glide CMS with this tech. I wonder who will be the first to license it?

(97d)

Bosch coming out with alternative to SawStop...

Peter Galbert's book "Chairmaker's Notebook"

Peter Galbert finished his new book "Chairmaker's Notebook" on green woodworking and building chairs. Lost Art Press and Lee Valley have the book listed and will apparently send bound copies out within a few weeks.



I ordered a bound and PDF version. I was pleasantly surprised to find the PDF file immediately available for download. I have been browsing several subjects I was very interested in and have found the detailed writing and drawings very descriptive. Galbert has an art education and is a very gifted illustrator, his had drawn illustrations are very useful in understanding the process. Even those who have no interest in building a Windsor Chair will find much to learn in this book. In my book, Galbert's writing skills combined with the prolific illustrations cover the many subjects in a unique and engaging way.

(97d)

Peter Galbert's book "Chairmaker's Notebook"

rusty table saw top

I just came in from my first day in the cement floor barn after horrible winter weather. I uncovered my 6 month old stopsaw and the cast iron table is a sea of rust. Got a set of hard, medium, soft Sandflex blocks from Klingspor's and spent 4 hours of really hard scrubbing and then sprayed the surface with Glidecoat. Is there a better way? I probably should have used the Glidecoat in fall before cold concrete and warm days.

(97d)

rusty table saw top

Sharpening issues in Chair Building... Classes

I just finished my second chair building class. The underlying issue I became convinced of at my last class was not the lack of the specific tools needed for the job or even a lack of the specific skill set to use the specialized hand tools. The most frustrating issue I have noticed is the lack of a sharp tool. Without a sharp tool it is hard to learn the techniques or make progress on the various work.



I am sure from an instructor's view point it is hard to give a sharp tool to a beginning student as the sharp tool may be more dangerous and the beginner will frequently dull it in short order. In a class, like a chair class, where moving slow means the project just want get done, a student with dull tools may not have a prayer of finishing. Maybe schools offering these kinds of classes should have a prerequisite sharpening class or at least mention in the tool list how the student is expected to sharpen their tools. I believe some instructors may attempt to resolve this issue by providing tools. Realistically though, who could/would sharpen all the tools for every student prior to a class like a chair class? Even if all tools needed were sharp at the start of the class how long will they stay that way with a group of inexperienced students? I tried to think ahead and have sharp tools ready to use for my last class, but I wasn't sure exactly what tools would be used. I ended up with sharp tools that did not get used and dull tools I wasn't expecting to need.



The more I do hand tool woodworking, the more important I find sharpening skills to be. I was the only student attempting to sharpen my own tools at the last class I attended. My experience was, even stoping to sharpen my tools was faster than continuing to fail to make progress with dull tools.

(97d)

Sharpening issues in Chair Building... Classes

Unisaw cutting capability

Quick Question for you all. I have a 3HP Delta Unisaw in my little shop and plan to make a traditional workbench. I mostly cut 3/4" wood and was wondering, what are my realistic expectations on cutting 8/4 maple? Will my saw handle it easily or am I pushing it?



Thanks,

Scott

(97d)

Unisaw cutting capability

Review Wood Owl Drill bits

I just spent a week at a chair making class at Country Workshops where we had the opportunity to use several bits for drilling those difficult holes for Irish Stick/Windsor chairs. The particularly hard job was drilling 3/4" holes 1 1/2" deep in kiln dried oak chair backs at precise angles. The LV green wood bits and other auger bits were painfully slow, needed to constantly be sharpened and would over heat very quickly making them dangerous to touch. The frustrating thing about drilling the holes for these chair seats and arms is they need to be placed precisely in very hard wood. Holding a bit precisely on a sight line and resultant angle is not easy. Holding the bit along both planes, applying large amounts of pressure for more than a few seconds can be very challenging.



We finally decided to try the Wood Owl Ultra Smooth bit I had and the difference was amazing. The work was all of a sudden practically effortless. We did three chairs with the one bit with no problems dulling the three spurs or spirals. Probably the most impressive thing was the bit was much cooler after drilling an entire hole than the other bits were after just piercing the surface. Another benefit of these bits is they are so precisely made and hard to bend they produced very precise holes. The lead screw on the bit worked exceptionally well at engaging in a hand awl punched hole, keeping the bit on track, even when powered by a corded heavy duty electric drill. The lead screw never lost purchase or spun in place. We actually had to reverse the drill to back the screw out of the wood.



I was a fan of these bits before my class. All the students and our instructor were very impressed especially when they found how reasonably priced these bits are compared to other auger bits.

(977)

Review Wood Owl Drill bits

Limited use Lathe and four tools?

I just got back from a chair making class at Country Workshops. I had never turned anything and was surprised to find myself turning! The course instructor, who is hand tool oriented, felt that the accuracy and speed turning tapered mortises was worth reserving a spot for a lathe, even in a hand tool shop. Long story short I am thinking about investing in a small lathe and four shaping tools: roughing gouge, detail gouge, diamond parting tool and a oval skew.



I am more interested in hand tools and would probably make bowls with hand tools. I am interested in turning fairly simple chair legs, chair rungs, tool handles, tapered & straight tenons, maybe table legs....

Any suggestions on models, features etc., used gear....would be appreciated.

(977)

Limited use Lathe and four tools?

Anyone put a Hour Meter on any of their equipment??

Just wondering if anyone else has put a hour meter on any of their machines? I just added one on my planer to monitor time for maintenance reasons. (I am not very good at remembering to oil things like that). This is more me being curious what others have done.

(977)

Anyone put a Hour Meter on any of their equipment??

Epilog Summit Laser- driver and software help needed...

Hello Everyone,

I recently bought a used Epilog Summit Laser. It seems to be working well.

It came with a factory manual, but I had to download the driver from Epilog's website.

The 32 bit driver seems quite basic. Maybe I didn't install it correctly or something.

It does give you a selection for setting raster and vector speed and power. But not a nice menu with slider buttons, etc.

The manual refers to a "stamp" driver for creating rubber stamps, with special settings, but this is not on Epilogs website.

Does anyone out there have the more complete set of drivers/software for this Summit?

Also, on another note, when vector cutting circles in 1/8" wood, the edges are not smooth, but square cuts are. Anything to make the circles smoother?

Thanks,

Jeff

(977)

Epilog Summit Laser- driver and software help needed...

What wood? Would you trim this back? What finish?

I inherited several handplanes from my Father-in-law, a Swedish Cabinet maker. Great person and the source of my interest in woodworking. I'm renovating a Bailey #3 and the photos are of the handle after the thick varnish was removed. I must say removing the varnish and getting the dings smoothed and the handle to this point took more aggressive work with sandpaper than any other piece of wood I can remember. This wood is hard and the grain goes every which way. I'm just not sure what wood it is. Would like more experienced eyes to give an opinion. The front knob was replaced with a hard, high polish, plastic. The rear fit of the handle at the base, IMHO, isn't very good. The handle extends out over the edge of the base. Considering the hardness of the wood, I'm not surprised they stopped when it was close and said that's good enough. However, I'm inclined to try to get it a little closer to a better fit. Would you? Then what finish. I love natural wood finishes such as just Watco Oil, but the wild grain pattern on this makes me a little apprehensive that would look good. Again, more experienced opinions are sought. I'm always thankful for any constructive ideas and input. V/r Don M





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(977)

What wood? Would you trim this back? What finish?

Shaper? Power Feeder?

I'm going to be making kitchen cabinets shortly for our house. My wife wants Shaker style which is nice and simple and relatively timeless. I have a router table and a cheaper set of shaker rail/stile bits and have made quite a few shaker doors in the past with OK results. I never seem to quite get the consistency at the joints I think I should be getting which means more sanding to make things flush, etc. With this bigger batch of doors I was pondering a shaper hoping to make things a little more consistent and potentially faster and without the annoying whine of a router for hours on end.



I've been casually checking Craiglist looking for used shapers. I found one last night and it includes a power feeder and the Freeborn shaper tooling I would need. Asking price is $1,000 for everything and seller says it all works. From the pictures it looks like it may have been used in a commercial setting.



I've never used a shaper before and am a little intimidated (safety wise) but it seems like a power feeder would make things safer and faster. I've done some searches on the forum to do some research and it seems like there are people in the "shaper camp" and in the "router camp". I don't think I NEED a shaper but if the price is right and it would make things easier/faster then it may be worthwhile. And if I buy used and decide it's not for me I can sell it for a small loss.



I know I'm not giving too many details but if everything checked out to work would $1,000 be an unreasonable price to pay? Anything in particular I should look out for?



thanks,

Mike

(7ef)

Shaper? Power Feeder?

Sub-panel question

I did make an attempt to search the stickied post regarding the NEC but really didn't find the answer to my question.



I have a sub-panel that services all my pool equipment (pumps/motors, heaters, light, etc.) that I want to move from the side of my house and into the new pool shed I'm going to erect.



We are busting up the pool decking so now is the perfect time to bury whatever stuff I want to do.



I want to extend the lines from the old sub-panel location at my house to the new location at the pool shed. Can I splice these lines and put them in a junction box and feed from there to the new sub-panel location? Or do the sub-panel wires need to be unbroken straight from the main panel all the way to the pool shed? Or is that up to the AHJ?



Of course, I'd like to splice the lines...I have length for that right now. If I have to run it from the main panel, I gotta go buy new wire for that. $$$s :(



Thanks :)

(7ef)

Sub-panel question

pattern shaping on the spindle sander with the Wadkin JY

sometimes the pieces are just to delicate to do on the spindle moulder for pattern shaping. i was short a few bobbins for the sander and made my own here is the link to that thread in the UK



http://ift.tt/1BMIlzy



next up was to make the inset rings and a rub collar.















thanks for looking

(7ef)

pattern shaping on the spindle sander with the Wadkin JY

Accuracy of a Square

I have a framing square that I just checked for accuracy. It is off ~1/64 over 23 1/2", should I accept that as accurate? I did the draw a lineflip and draw a second line test and there is 1/32 between the two lines.



Thanks

(7ef)

Accuracy of a Square

mesquite source

Texas wood source.


I’m in TX and would like to take advantage of the visit and buy some small pieces of mesquite and maybe other local woods not available in WV where I live.




I’m in the Rockport area now. Traveling by car with my wife so not lots of room. I’m a novice turner so will probably hang on to whatever I get for awhile till my skills improve. I do flat work but won’t have room for much in the way of boards.




I’d appreciate any suggestions for woods in addition to the mesquite, and sources, especially in the Rockport - Corpus Christi area.




Also, should I be looking for green, air-dried or kiln dried? Is there much point in getting green if I won’t be turning it for months or years?




Thanks for your help. Post here or PM me if you would rather.

(7ef)

mesquite source

A SawStop Story

This is a bit long but I thought it might help other SawStop users.



I've owned my PCS SawStop for over 5 years and during that time, I never had a problem. Recently, however, I was making a rip fence adjustment a bit too fast and the blade had not quite finished moving when I touched it with a metal rule. The brake fired. Just a "thunk" and the blade did not retract.



So I kick myself and go buy another brake. I install it and I'm back in business. No problem.



However, yesterday, I'm ripping some walnut and the saw stops - just like I had hit the paddle. But I hadn't hit the paddle. And when I recycle the say (turn off, turn on) I'm getting lights saying the brake is not adjusted properly (solid red, slow blink green). I adjust and adjust but always get the same lights.



So I go to my supplier and they lend me a brake which install in my saw. Same problem.



Today I call SawStop and after much head scratching and trying different things, he has me adjust the riving knife to be a bit further from the blade. Success!



It seems that the brake has software in it and they have changed the software over time. The new brake apparently had software that was a bit more sensitive to the position of the riving knife. Either that, or the process of moving the riving knife block did something.



Anyway, I'm back in business. The guy at SawStop was very polite and competent. He just kept working with me, trying different things, until we got a success.



Now, I just have to see if it continues to work properly over the next few days, weeks and months. I'm optimistic it will.



Mike



[Since I was into the guts of the saw, I took the opportunity to lubricate everything. It's amazing how much better the mechanism works with a bit of lubrication.]

(7ef)

A SawStop Story

Newel Blanks Stamped BVL, Help Identify!

Does anyone know the mill making newel post blanks (3 1/2" squares x 54, 52, etc), they are stamped with black lettering BVL?



Thanks for you help!

(.-.)

Newel Blanks Stamped BVL, Help Identify!

Jessem 8350 Dowels

Just got the Jessem 8350 and now I'm off to a bunch of little projects that I can use the new jig with. Only problem is I have a small supply of dowels and wondered where you fellas get the best deal on dowels?

(.-.)

Jessem 8350 Dowels

Ritter 23 spindle line boring machine

I have a 23 spindle, Ritter R-123 Line Boring machine for sale. I bought the machine used in 2007 and it has performed well ever since. We put a new set of bits on it several years ago and I also have the original set of bits that came with it. I'm moving to a machine that also does construction holes so I won't need this one anymore. Price - $1,500



Features:

23 spindles, 12 right, 11 left

32mm spindle centers

10mm collets

gear-driven spindles

manually operated index pins

manually operated 2" stroke

72" adjustable back fence with 6 stops

1-10" adjustable treat depth

Leeson 3hp, 3 phase motor and controls

24" x 48" table size

base with legs

weight ~ 400 lbs



I'd post a pic, but I can't figure out how to post from a Flickr account...PM me for a pic

(b4b)

Ritter 23 spindle line boring machine

Having trouble annealing some steel

Hi guys, Im getting set up to make a pair of 1/4" hollow/rounds. I needed to make a scratch stock to help shape the soles. (Suggested in two of the books Im using.) I tried to anneal a Garlick scraper so I could shape a scratch stock blade from it - failed miserably and still cant cut it after 2 attempts. Next I tried an old sawzall blade. After 2 attempts I got it softened enough to cut with a bimetal hacksaw blade and filed to shape. She works pretty well. But I cant figured out why I had a hard time with this.



I used a map gas torch. I let the blade get bright red (to my eyes, it never got orange, but maybe Im wrong). I put it in a can full of lime (insulator) and let it cool. After one pass through this, it couldnt be cut with a hacksaw or filed - both just skated across it the steel. After the second try the sawzall blade was better, but that scraper was still uncuttable.



Can anyone see what Im doing wrong here? For example, could I be getting it too hot?

Another odd sign - the stuff Im reading says that when its hot enough the blade will no longer be magnetic. I tried that magnet multiple times during the process - this steel was ALWAYS magnetic.



Clearly, Im missing something. Can you please give me a hand?



Many thanks,

Fred

(b4b)

Having trouble annealing some steel

Wood Identification Help

I just bought a bunch of wood off of somebody on CL and have a few remaining pieces that I've yet to identify. Does anybody have thoughts on what these could be?





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(b4b)

Wood Identification Help

Creeker's Weekend Accomplishments

16 Mar 2015



Good Morning Everyone,

Been a very busy week of oncall duty. I'm hoping to get some sleep tomorrow since I'm taking the day off. Got the nightstand finished and the customer picked it up tonight. It gets shipped to his daughter in California this coming week. The guitar building project is still under way but took a weeks break due to oncall duty at the day job.



That's it for me, so what did YOU do this past weekend?



Best of weeks to you all.

(b94)

Creeker's Weekend Accomplishments

My 3rd dust collector ductwork system in ~10 hours

And I'm getting faster. I've spent about 8 hours so far, and I figure, after 2 more hours, I'll have my:

• tablesaw


• router table


• jointer/planer


• horizontal edge sander


• wide belt sander

all hooked up and ready to start churning out sawdust. I' reusing components from my old shop, which means taking metal foil tape off of elbows to reshape them for my current needs, and that's slowing me down quite a bit.



This will be stage one. Stage two, which I'll start in a few months, I'll expand it to add a floor sweep, my radial arm saw, my chop saw, disk sanders and a drop for my mobile bandsaw & shaper.



Todd

(b94)

My 3rd dust collector ductwork system in ~10 hours

12x24 filters for air scrubber looking for group buy in Milwaukee WI

Interested in replacing the filter of your air scrubber, but don't want to order more than one?



Maybe a small group buy of 2 or 4 people in the Milwaukee area would work for everyone.



The filter size is 12x24x12 for the Vee bag and 12x24x1 for the multi Vee filter. I would like to order from Wynn industries as they have a solid reputation, but the Vee bag filters sell for $69 for a pair and the Vee filters are $48 for 6.



This size will fit the JDS 350 and 750, Delta AP200, 50-860,50-875, Jet AFS 1000B and 708620B, and Powermatic PM1200



I understand the filters can be sourced from many locations, but would rather pay a little more and get the reputation that comes with Wynn products. My needs are one Vee bag and 2 or 3 Vee filters.



John

(b94)

12x24 filters for air scrubber looking for group buy in Milwaukee WI

Pecan Slab Coffee Table

I just finished a coffee table from a crotch slab section. I went with some 2" thick hickory that I wanted to dye/ebonize to a very dark color for the base. I didn't want the base to distract from the top, and I think the dark base with the swept out legs leads you to look up at the top of the table vs looking at the base. This was particularly rewarding as I cut the slabs from the tree myself (with help from a buddy of course) then found a kiln and got them dried. I enjoyed taking it all the way from tree to product.

(b94)

Pecan Slab Coffee Table

Irrigation pipe for dust collector?

As the title says, just curious if anyone has tried it? I think I will, here is a pile of aluminum donor material that will soon be repurposed if plans work... Thoughts?



I won't be using the bell ends as I can't think of any design mods to reengineer for negative pressure. I plan on using long runs to minimize joints. This is 6", and snaplock just fits over it, joints will use that feature and tape. The reason for this is the need for quite a bit more pipe than I wanted to buy, so this is a cheaper alternative possibly.

(b94)

Irrigation pipe for dust collector?

Iyoroi Special Alloyed carpenter's chisels

Does anyone have experience with Tools for Working Wood's

68rc special alloyed chisels by Iyoroi?

(b94)

Iyoroi Special Alloyed carpenter's chisels

Trotec Job Control VS. Epilog

Hello,



I am about to purchase my second laser. I currently have a Epilog Mini 24 40 Watt, have owned it for 4 years. I am looking at purchasing either a Epilog Fusion 40 75/120 watt(depending on what price my rep can give me) or the Trotec Speedy 400 60/80 Watt(depening on price given by Rep.).



I have Demo'd a Trotec 3 times and was blown away by the raster speed, but had a tough time wrapping my head around the Job Control software and not having a "Set home" position. On my third visit I started to understand it a little and began to thought that I could wrap my head around it with time.



95% of my business is rastering.



My hesitation with going with Trotec is that the Job control software will take so long to set up each job that the increased speed wont make any difference. With Epilog it's so simple to load a job in Corel, print, set my home position and go. With Trotec it seems to be so many extra steps to print. I have been mulling this over in my head for weeks. Basically not pulling the trigger until I search every nook and cranny for info and opinions.



I also have a part time employee who will be using the Laser about 10/30 hours a week, depending on work load. Not sure if the Trotec will be too complex for them to learn & eventually master? Thanks so much, I really appreciate this forum!

(b94)

Trotec Job Control VS. Epilog

Blue Box Elder Vessel

The knob and vessel are dyed box elder and the lid is ebonized cherry. I used black India ink on the cherry. It is 10 inches wide by 5 inches high, finished with WOP and buffed. Comments and Criticism welcome.

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(b94)

Blue Box Elder Vessel

Unisaw Issue

I have a Delta X5 left tilt, 3hp single phase table saw I bought in early 2005. While I have used it a fair bit, by no means has it been over used. I find that occasionally it will shut off after it has been running for 5 - 7 minutes. I presumed it is getting hot, but I took off the side cover and ran it that way and it did the same thing. While I have a heater in my garage, I have it set at about 55 or so for the winter. I truly don't see how it can be overheating, but after it shuts down, it will restart in 3-4 minutes. I don't have a dust collector on it, so airflow is less than ideal. It does it even with light usage, such as cutting expanded PVC, which is about the same as cutting balsa.



Thoughts?



I would like to get it resolved as I have been thinking about replacing it in the next month or two.



Thanks

(b94)

Unisaw Issue

Pricing finish

Hey all, I'm new here to posting. Followed this site for a long time. I'm curious how you all price finishing. Not dollar amounts but the methods used to come up with price. We do custom kitchens and millwork and have been figuring a percentage of the job cost for finish. Recently I started doing some unfinished furniture for a store and don't know what the easiest way to figure it is. Anyone charging based on sq inches . We spray mostly pre cat lacquers and post cat cv. Thanks in advance

(b94)

Pricing finish

If You Squint

There is a Cherry bath vanity in that pile of wood. All the pieces are to size, they just need final marking out and the joinery cut. I'll let 'em set for a few days to see if they have any more stupid wood tricks left. I expect I'll start the joinery by the coming weekend.



Here are a couple of the rough notes:







and:

(b94)

If You Squint

I'm probably going to burn in hell for this....

see, I'm generally anti- tool collector. I use tools, I want others to use tools, I don't want to see them get amassed into a small number of hands. It's a philosophical thing. keep the traditions alive, not in a museum.



at a thrift store the other day I picked up a block plane.

It's not like I need another block plane, I have more than I need already. but this one was old, a design I wasn't familliar with and both in good shape and cheap. it came home with me. today I cleaned it up and got a good look at it.



it has the adjustable toe plate, but no adjuster lever for it, nor any sign that it ever had one.



it has no lateral lever.



it has a lever cap of a design I hadn't seen before.



on the blade is stamped (very faintly)



L. BAILEY'S

PATENT

AUG. 6, 57

AUG. 31, 58 EXT.





It's entirely useable, given a sharpening.

I find myself wondering what it's worth to a collector....





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I'm probably going to burn in hell for this....

Ideas for coffee table protection

A maple coffee table, that I just finished (see image). I like to put my feet up and probably set a glass or two on it. It's finished with Arm R Seal, but I need more protection.

Looking for ideas to build on:

1. First I was thinking of cutting strips of the table scrap pieces to make a cutting/serving board of sort. The top is almost 1.25" thick and would probably cut the strips and glue up something in the 14"x24" size. I'd probably make two and would go maybe just a little bit thicker, say 1.5" thick with the glue up strips. Inlays of different wood is not preferred and I'd finish it like a cutting board. Might make two that I can put up like "coasters".

2. I have 16/16 ceramic tile in my house. Also some 16/8 in two different colors that look like stone. Using extras I have of those or something else. Probably make two of whatever I decide. My thought here would be to use the tile on a bed of 1.25" material and then trim around the perimeter with a maple border - say a 1.25" border. The wood I'd finish as a cutting board - it would probably look better to utilize the stone as the protection and user arm r seal on the border.

I'm unsure about the seal between the tile and the wood - clear silicone?

Thanks for your time. rick



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Ideas for coffee table protection