Powermatic 180 Industrial wood planer - $1250 (West Milton, Oh)
Powermatic 180 Industrial wood planer - $1250 (West Milton, Oh)
samedi 28 février 2015
Powermatic 180 Industrial wood planer - $1250 (West Milton, Oh)
Blade slippage with Veritas spokeshave?
First off Im a sucker for spokeshaves..Always have been(grew up making chair rounds)..Im wanting to try a veritas low angle but to be honest Ive read so many posts and reviews about its problem with blade slippage it has me a little bit gun shy..Even read a post by Rob Lee on a british forum were he said the blade can slip:confused: I know ruffing the blade fix's it for a lot of owners but it seems many it does not..I like the design of the shave(like the Stanley razor edge) but Im curious as to your guys opinions on the blade clamping and if ruffing the blade has helped or not ?..thanks for your time..:)
Blade slippage with Veritas spokeshave?
My workbench build
Well, I've been working on my bench with the plans of posting up the build and finished project when I was done, but I'm in need of help now, I am using alder since it is available and pretty cheap. so far I have milled up all the boards for the top.
image.jpg
Laminated them together using titebond III.
image.jpg
Planed it all down, it's about 2.75" thick.
image.jpg
I cheated and used my router to cut sliding dovetails in my left(no end vise side) end cap and bench top, and got it fitted together, that is where I am, I've been searching around on whether or not use glue since movement should be a problem, the dovetails are very tight fitting, and the front board of my bench is still not attatched yet, I'd like to use deper hand cut dovetails for the front board since the machine ones look, well, a little dinky.
image.jpg
image.jpg
So there ya have it, I was thinking about using long lags, but don't know where to put them, and I'd rather not use any steel other than the vises in this bench, could i drill and glue in dowels? Again, not sure where they would need to go though. Any advice is greatly appreciated, and I will keep this updated as I go. Thanks!
image.jpg
Laminated them together using titebond III.
image.jpg
Planed it all down, it's about 2.75" thick.
image.jpg
I cheated and used my router to cut sliding dovetails in my left(no end vise side) end cap and bench top, and got it fitted together, that is where I am, I've been searching around on whether or not use glue since movement should be a problem, the dovetails are very tight fitting, and the front board of my bench is still not attatched yet, I'd like to use deper hand cut dovetails for the front board since the machine ones look, well, a little dinky.
image.jpg
image.jpg
So there ya have it, I was thinking about using long lags, but don't know where to put them, and I'd rather not use any steel other than the vises in this bench, could i drill and glue in dowels? Again, not sure where they would need to go though. Any advice is greatly appreciated, and I will keep this updated as I go. Thanks!
My workbench build
Flame Finial
Its cold outside but 70 and sunny in the shop so a great day for playing with the indexer. Inspiration by a Legacy video on youtube
Flame Finial
Making flutes with a power carver....but which power carver to buy?
I'm toying with the idea of purchasing a 'flute master' which, as the name implies, is designed to make flutes on the lathe. Its use requires a die grinder or either a Weecher, Foredom or Mastercarver flex-shaft rotary tool. I am debating between the Foredom and the Mastercarver. Here are some specs (as I understand them) comparing the two:
Foredom
Mastercarver
The higher rpm, more hp and lower price makes the Mastercarver attractive. Has anyone had to make the decision between these two machines? Which one did you choose? Other opinions? Comments? Any guidance and/or words of wisdom are appreciated.
Foredom
- 1/3 hp
- 18,000 max rpm
- uses up to 1/4" shank bits (via interchangeable collets)
- comes with one handpiece
- $329
Mastercarver
- 1/2 hp
- 30,000 max rpm
- uses up to 1/4" shank bits (no collet required)
- comes with two handpieces
- $217
The higher rpm, more hp and lower price makes the Mastercarver attractive. Has anyone had to make the decision between these two machines? Which one did you choose? Other opinions? Comments? Any guidance and/or words of wisdom are appreciated.
Making flutes with a power carver....but which power carver to buy?
Looking for Sanding Brush or Mop
Where can I find a sanding brush, mop, etc. for my drill press or stand alone motor for sanding molding, preferably one at least 4" wide with replaceable sanding media?
John
John
Looking for Sanding Brush or Mop
Rehab'd a couple wood spokeshaves today, good finds..
Got a pretty good deal on a couple woodies that I rehabbed today..A brass sole old style and a nice Stanley 84..Particularly proud of the 84 as I got it for $21:D I think I paid about $10 for the older one.. Good cutters after all was said and done..
Rehab'd a couple wood spokeshaves today, good finds..
Oil for Redwood Paneling
I have some walls in our bathroom I paneled in T&G redwood about 25 years ago. I never put any finish on it. Over the years it's been scratched a bit and fingerprints show up because of skin oils. It looks kind of tired. So today I sanded the wood, figuring I'd just wipe some BLO on it so it would pop and give it a light seal. Then I heard BLO doesn't like water. Part of the redwood is on the walls above the shower. It does get wet there once in a while.
I was hoping a one-and-done oil wipe would do the trick but now I'm beginning to have my doubts. This was my wish list:
- One coat application
- Can take an occasional splash of water
- Non-toxic (I can't open any windows now because it's very cold outside)
- Fast drying
Other than finding a lamp with a genie in it, is there any hope finding a product like this?
I was hoping a one-and-done oil wipe would do the trick but now I'm beginning to have my doubts. This was my wish list:
- One coat application
- Can take an occasional splash of water
- Non-toxic (I can't open any windows now because it's very cold outside)
- Fast drying
Other than finding a lamp with a genie in it, is there any hope finding a product like this?
Oil for Redwood Paneling
Ros
I have a 1/4 sheet palm sander and wondering about a 5" random orbital sander. Is there any advantage to a ROS over a 1/4 sheet palm sander? Would a ROS be any more agressive than a 1/4 sheet palm sander using the same grit sand paper? A 1/4 sheet palm sander has the advantage of being able to use a 1/4 sheey of sand paper or a roll of 4 1/2" of paper cut to 5 1/2" long, where a ROS needs the 5" round disc with hook/loop fasteners. Just wondering if I would gain anything getting a ROS since I already have 2 of the 1/4 sheet palm sanders.
Bob
Bob
Ros
DEWALT Hammerdrill Brushed vs. Brushless...?
I’m in the market for a new cordless hammerdrill. I’m a Dewalt guy with my drills and I think it’s time to make the jump to the 20v line up. I checked out the DCD985 and the DCD995 (brushless model) today. The DCD985 is a bit longer/larger and a tad heavier than the 995 but I liked the overall weight balance of it. I’ve read up on the brushless models where they say they will run up to 50%+ longer on a single charge than a brushed model. Does anybody know if that’s accurate? If so, that would probably be enough of a plus to talk me into the 995 and spend the extra $50 or so. If the brushless really isn’t that much of a noticeable improvement, I would have no problem going with the 985. I guess I’m looking for suggestions from some of you who have more experience with these new brushless tools.
Any feed would be much appreciated.
Thanks!
Any feed would be much appreciated.
Thanks!
DEWALT Hammerdrill Brushed vs. Brushless...?
Kreg Klamp Table / Klamp Table Top
Anyone have the Kreg Klamp Table or the Klamp Table Top? Anyone make a similar set up using the Kreg Klamp Tracks and klamps?
If so what is your opinion of this jig, is it worth the expense? I am not a professional cabinet shop and do not build lots of cabinets so it would be kind of luxury for me.
Thanks
If so what is your opinion of this jig, is it worth the expense? I am not a professional cabinet shop and do not build lots of cabinets so it would be kind of luxury for me.
Thanks
Kreg Klamp Table / Klamp Table Top
C. John Heberts site
Hello-over the years I have enjoyed C Johns website and artistry.mi see the website is down....anyone have an update? Is there a new website?
Thanks!
Thanks!
C. John Heberts site
Ruida Tech Virtual Print Server Expieriences?
I was on a different forum and conversed with a gentleman who showed me a link to a Ruida Tech laser DSP virtual print driver and 256 greyscale for one of their dsp's. I'm wondering if anybody has more info or can share some experiences with this controller. I checked out the website but can not find any more info or specifics, just the usual buzzword chinglish.
I would love to have a DSP with a real print driver for my Chinese lasers.
I would love to have a DSP with a real print driver for my Chinese lasers.
Ruida Tech Virtual Print Server Expieriences?
Hofman and Hammer workbench
I have recently had to move my shop to a new location, during the move the Boss Lady decided that she really likes my old workbench so much in our basement where it temporarily was stored, that she is keeping it!!
So it looks like I am in the market for a new workbench.. It have no desire to build a new bench, so I have been looking hard at the Hofman and Hammer large German workbench and keeping an eye on the thread about Sjobergs.
I was wondering if anyone has or has used a Hofmand and Hammer workbench can comment on what they like or dislike about the bench..
So it looks like I am in the market for a new workbench.. It have no desire to build a new bench, so I have been looking hard at the Hofman and Hammer large German workbench and keeping an eye on the thread about Sjobergs.
I was wondering if anyone has or has used a Hofmand and Hammer workbench can comment on what they like or dislike about the bench..
Hofman and Hammer workbench
Raw G-Code Basics
Hello,
I just got a new job. They have an old machine that they lost the software for 10 years ago. So they do it all by hand. I am now having to learn raw g-code. Do you guys have a good site for learning the basics?
I just got a new job. They have an old machine that they lost the software for 10 years ago. So they do it all by hand. I am now having to learn raw g-code. Do you guys have a good site for learning the basics?
Raw G-Code Basics
Vacuum System for Composite Work and Veneering
Thanks to Joe Woodworker, I just built a vacuum system to help with some composite and veneering projects. I had been borrowing a unit owned by a friend, but it became unavailable (he was using it for an extensive job) right at the same time I really needed it. So off to JW I went (I had been planning to do this for years). By the way, JW sells a kit of better materials, less expensively, than any I could source locally.
I made some modifications based on a design by Jim Harmon (thank you Jim) which made the project much more complex ... but fun. Someday when I need to get inside to replace the capacitor or regulator I'll sand the wood and varnish/poly to try and compete with the outrageously polished item Jim built. But my execution works, in fact it works great, no leaks. I installed the MAC valve backwards, but once I discovered that, I was able to fix the problem quickly. I used a DPDT switch to provide vacuum run, off, continuous run.
Used an engineering CAD program to get the carriage shape I sought. Printed out at full scale, cutout the template and used to cutout the wood for the carriage. The "persnicketyness" of npt fittings demanded that I assemble the tubes first, then measure carefully, and translate those measurements to the drawing system. There is basically no play or forgiveness to the system. So had the npt fittings needed an extra turn, it is likely nothing would have fit. Stupid way to design and build something (my fault entirely). But all is well that ends well.
Going to go test it out on a job right now!
I made some modifications based on a design by Jim Harmon (thank you Jim) which made the project much more complex ... but fun. Someday when I need to get inside to replace the capacitor or regulator I'll sand the wood and varnish/poly to try and compete with the outrageously polished item Jim built. But my execution works, in fact it works great, no leaks. I installed the MAC valve backwards, but once I discovered that, I was able to fix the problem quickly. I used a DPDT switch to provide vacuum run, off, continuous run.
Used an engineering CAD program to get the carriage shape I sought. Printed out at full scale, cutout the template and used to cutout the wood for the carriage. The "persnicketyness" of npt fittings demanded that I assemble the tubes first, then measure carefully, and translate those measurements to the drawing system. There is basically no play or forgiveness to the system. So had the npt fittings needed an extra turn, it is likely nothing would have fit. Stupid way to design and build something (my fault entirely). But all is well that ends well.
Going to go test it out on a job right now!
Vacuum System for Composite Work and Veneering
Trotec JobControl install issue - Had to wipe hard drive and install Win 7 Pro
As a preface, I had previously installed JobControl without problems.
I was having problems (not related to JobControl) on my Vista based computer and had to wipe out the hard drive.
Installed Windows 7 Pro and got a fresh start.
When I installed Trotec JobControl, on the screen where it asks for Name, Company name, and machine serial number, it doesn't accept my info. Which is the same info I previously used.
Does the laser have to be connected for the install to recognize the info it is asking for?
When installing from scratch like this, do I need to go back to my first installation disk (9.something) and then install the next update (10.2 something AKA known as 10.3), and after that the current version of 10.4 ?
Or should I just be able to install the latest version without installing the previous ones?
I have the license numbers and the software install numbers and the file which is supposed to go into the INI files folder but for some reason the install won't get past the screen mentioned above. Any ideas? I plan to call Trotec Monday but if I can get it fixed this weekend that would be better.
I was having problems (not related to JobControl) on my Vista based computer and had to wipe out the hard drive.
Installed Windows 7 Pro and got a fresh start.
When I installed Trotec JobControl, on the screen where it asks for Name, Company name, and machine serial number, it doesn't accept my info. Which is the same info I previously used.
Does the laser have to be connected for the install to recognize the info it is asking for?
When installing from scratch like this, do I need to go back to my first installation disk (9.something) and then install the next update (10.2 something AKA known as 10.3), and after that the current version of 10.4 ?
Or should I just be able to install the latest version without installing the previous ones?
I have the license numbers and the software install numbers and the file which is supposed to go into the INI files folder but for some reason the install won't get past the screen mentioned above. Any ideas? I plan to call Trotec Monday but if I can get it fixed this weekend that would be better.
Trotec JobControl install issue - Had to wipe hard drive and install Win 7 Pro
Problem with Porter Cable nail gun...
Tried to use my Porter Cable nail gun today. Place the gun in position, pull the trigger, and air escapes near the trigger mechanism. Any thoughts? thanks...John
Problem with Porter Cable nail gun...
Tail/Wagon vise utility
what is easiest way to incorporate a tail or wagon vise into my existing maple bench?
Say I want to clamp something like a small plank, so the entire face could be planed w/o having to replace clamps all around? you know, clamp end to end.
Any work around?
Below is my bench, and a rig I saw in a magazine:
.Bench End 2 (1).jpgBench End 2 (2).jpgMakeshift Tail Vise.jpg
Say I want to clamp something like a small plank, so the entire face could be planed w/o having to replace clamps all around? you know, clamp end to end.
Any work around?
Below is my bench, and a rig I saw in a magazine:
.Bench End 2 (1).jpgBench End 2 (2).jpgMakeshift Tail Vise.jpg
Tail/Wagon vise utility
What is the best mouse for SketchUp?
What features do you folks who use SketchUp a lot look for in a good mouse?
What is the best mouse for SketchUp?
Factory cut edge identification
This is a silly question from a newbie . How does one identify factory cut edges besides visual inspection ? Do manufacturers of the ply or mdf sheets mark them in same way ? Tks
Factory cut edge identification
How Flat Do Soles Need To Be?
In order for a plane to work properly, I'm wondering how flat the sole of my planes need to be? I suspect it has a lot to do with the size of the plane and it's purpose, but are there some generalities that I can apply, being a newbee and all? I have everything from a #1 smoothing plane, up to a #8.
I'm hoping this isn't one of those "can of worms" topics like I've experienced in the Power Tools forum concerning how flat a table saw table needs to be. Some say it needs to be dead flat corner to corner and others say they never concerned themselves with minute stuff like that, since wood moves.
Anyhow, looking for some guidance from those more experienced than I.
I'm hoping this isn't one of those "can of worms" topics like I've experienced in the Power Tools forum concerning how flat a table saw table needs to be. Some say it needs to be dead flat corner to corner and others say they never concerned themselves with minute stuff like that, since wood moves.
Anyhow, looking for some guidance from those more experienced than I.
How Flat Do Soles Need To Be?
Reliable mail order photo labs?
What's a good mail order photo lab? (I'll settle for one that is known to be a legitimate business.)
In cleaning up a friend's house, we found a roll to Tri-X 400 (B&W) which probably has nothing of importance on it, but I'd like to have it developed. I can't find a local photo shop that develops Tri-X any more.
In cleaning up a friend's house, we found a roll to Tri-X 400 (B&W) which probably has nothing of importance on it, but I'd like to have it developed. I can't find a local photo shop that develops Tri-X any more.
Reliable mail order photo labs?
fluctuating power -- tube or power supply?
Rather suddenly my power has dropped and is very uneven. Engraving starts out very light (almost no power) but usually picks up power after a minute or two. It then can fluctuate. This is with a newish (less than 60 days) RECI S2 tube. (The new 'stable" series tubes.) The Shenhui tech in China seems to think it has lost gas. Can a tube that has lost too much gas SOMETIMES has much more power than at other times? Or is it more likely the power supply?
(I have a spare RECI power supply in Customs that should come to me sometime next week. So I am stuck with guesses for the moment.)
(I have a spare RECI power supply in Customs that should come to me sometime next week. So I am stuck with guesses for the moment.)
fluctuating power -- tube or power supply?
Show me your lumber storage
Hey Yall!
I've got a LOT of wood to move from the old basement shop to the new shop and i'm interested in seeing your vertical lumber storage solutions. In the basement I stored it horizontally to save space but it was always a pain getting anything out as Mr. Murphy always placed the piece I needed on the bottom of the stack. No More! :)
Brian
I've got a LOT of wood to move from the old basement shop to the new shop and i'm interested in seeing your vertical lumber storage solutions. In the basement I stored it horizontally to save space but it was always a pain getting anything out as Mr. Murphy always placed the piece I needed on the bottom of the stack. No More! :)
Brian
Show me your lumber storage
Sharing Trotec between two PCs.
I have a member of staff starting with me this week, I need to get his PC linked up to my Speedy100 but also be able to operate the laser from my own PC too. It's probably a really easy thing to set up but I'm IT illiterate, can anyone explain the best way to do this without constantly swapping the USB lead?
Sharing Trotec between two PCs.
saw plate bluing
I made this saw a number of years ago and now I would like to remove the bluing on the plate. Does anyone know how this might be done? carcass saw.jpg
saw plate bluing
Clear seal Alder Wood
Ok everyone. Got an interesting project. A customer wants me to mass produce some ornaments for him on alder. He liked the samples, but...he wants it sealed like a clear epoxy/resin for a protective coating. He was concerned about scratches on the etchings.
After looking through our forum I was surprised to not find anything along these lines beyond a few comments on shellac or staining. He does not want staining, just a straight forward clear coat.
My initial thought is to do an epoxy dip like I've done with a cutting board, but that was costly and frustrating to get just right.
What are your thoughts? Insight?
After looking through our forum I was surprised to not find anything along these lines beyond a few comments on shellac or staining. He does not want staining, just a straight forward clear coat.
My initial thought is to do an epoxy dip like I've done with a cutting board, but that was costly and frustrating to get just right.
What are your thoughts? Insight?
Clear seal Alder Wood
Lathe Bed Extension
A few months back I was almost ready to purchase the 18" bed extension for turning bowls on my PM3520B lathe so as not to have the tool handles hit the ways and so I could face the cut better. I then saw a great post here of how to make your own extension and was going to give it a go. But, after thinking about it and gaining more knowledge (forums/videos) I'm re-thinking this again:
1) If I'm fine with the 20" capacity of my lathe couldn't I just slide the headstock to the right enough to give the banjo/tool rest some room and still be able to work off the end of the lathe no ways in the way?
2) I've seen experienced bowl turners have a few bowl gouges with different grind angles. Using steeper angle for the bottom. As I recall my handles hit the ways as I transition in the middle from the lip to bottom. Will more gouges solve my issue?
Thanks,
Mike
1) If I'm fine with the 20" capacity of my lathe couldn't I just slide the headstock to the right enough to give the banjo/tool rest some room and still be able to work off the end of the lathe no ways in the way?
2) I've seen experienced bowl turners have a few bowl gouges with different grind angles. Using steeper angle for the bottom. As I recall my handles hit the ways as I transition in the middle from the lip to bottom. Will more gouges solve my issue?
Thanks,
Mike
Lathe Bed Extension
Cushiony shoes, knee pain, weight
I'm am ready to close out my sharing about my recent knee surgery with one final question.
Delivered to the house yesterday was a catalogue from "Gravity Defyer" shoes......
I'm thinking maybe I need some cushier shoes. These appear well made, springs made into heels (gimmick?)
Can try free for a month.
Anybody have these, or any other ideas?
I need a pair of dress black, one of brown, and a shop shoe.
There is a store round here that has one of those machines you stand in to fit you....never seen it, I guess it measures for weight distribution. Is this a gimmick?
Does the above matter in regards to knee pain?
And-
I have already lost 15 lbs, and have another 60 to go to get to BMI of 27....These are permanent changes, folks. Hopefully not a fad.
I finally am ready to deal with my obesity and how I "use" food.
Every night I struggle a little with thoughts of ordering a pizza, or going to get some Popeye's chicken. Sounds absurd, doesn't it?
Have a Vitamix, am putting in lots of frozen vegetables, with gut nutrition, and eating meat. + nuts. little to no grain. Don't tell Archer Daniels Midland or ConAgra. Yum Yum on the coconut and chocolate greek yogurt.
Delivered to the house yesterday was a catalogue from "Gravity Defyer" shoes......
I'm thinking maybe I need some cushier shoes. These appear well made, springs made into heels (gimmick?)
Can try free for a month.
Anybody have these, or any other ideas?
I need a pair of dress black, one of brown, and a shop shoe.
There is a store round here that has one of those machines you stand in to fit you....never seen it, I guess it measures for weight distribution. Is this a gimmick?
Does the above matter in regards to knee pain?
And-
I have already lost 15 lbs, and have another 60 to go to get to BMI of 27....These are permanent changes, folks. Hopefully not a fad.
I finally am ready to deal with my obesity and how I "use" food.
Every night I struggle a little with thoughts of ordering a pizza, or going to get some Popeye's chicken. Sounds absurd, doesn't it?
Have a Vitamix, am putting in lots of frozen vegetables, with gut nutrition, and eating meat. + nuts. little to no grain. Don't tell Archer Daniels Midland or ConAgra. Yum Yum on the coconut and chocolate greek yogurt.
Cushiony shoes, knee pain, weight
USA Map Bookshelf (need help on wood choice and design)
Gentleman and ladies,
I'm planning on building a large USA map bookshelf to be the focal point of a large wall in our home. I've found two versions online, which you can see at the following links. I'm inclined to fashion mine more like the first one below on Dwell.com, which only has the shelves coming out on the lower parts of the state borders, rather than the whole state being outlined, but I'm not set on this yet. My question is, I want to build this with fine plywood and leave the edge exposed (not wanting any edge banding). We have an Eames lounge and coffee table, so lots of formed plywood. Any recommendations on a type of plywood that would cut well, leaving clean edges, and look good with just a sealer, no stain? I looked at cabinet grade plywood at HD, but it didn't look like great quality. I'm thinking some hardwood sheeting, 7-10 ply? Any other thoughts or ideas about this project would be appreciated. Here are the links:
http://ift.tt/1EzKEXR
http://ift.tt/1EzKFLv
an-american-bookshelf-in-london.jpg
I'm planning on building a large USA map bookshelf to be the focal point of a large wall in our home. I've found two versions online, which you can see at the following links. I'm inclined to fashion mine more like the first one below on Dwell.com, which only has the shelves coming out on the lower parts of the state borders, rather than the whole state being outlined, but I'm not set on this yet. My question is, I want to build this with fine plywood and leave the edge exposed (not wanting any edge banding). We have an Eames lounge and coffee table, so lots of formed plywood. Any recommendations on a type of plywood that would cut well, leaving clean edges, and look good with just a sealer, no stain? I looked at cabinet grade plywood at HD, but it didn't look like great quality. I'm thinking some hardwood sheeting, 7-10 ply? Any other thoughts or ideas about this project would be appreciated. Here are the links:
http://ift.tt/1EzKEXR
http://ift.tt/1EzKFLv
an-american-bookshelf-in-london.jpg
USA Map Bookshelf (need help on wood choice and design)
needs some ideas for an anti-tailgating device
Don't think it's possible to stop tailgating but I can think of a way to make it unpleasant for them... but I need some suggestions on what are some fairly low burning temp chemicals that put off a real bad smell when they burn, preferably with a bit of smoke for effect... any suggestions? Or some ready made gases that have a bad smell in small quantities. Obviously they need to be nontoxic but repulsive
needs some ideas for an anti-tailgating device
Upgrading the table saw, not sure why I'm hesitating
I have been upgrading all of my tools over the past year or so. I am not sure why, but, I am struggling with the table saw upgrade. I have had a ridgid table saw for the last 10+ years and seems to be okay. I get frustrated with the accuracy (recently upgrade the rails and fence) and it does bog down at times depending on the wood I'm cutting. I guess this is a question of not knowing what I don't know. I have seen the benefits of upgrading my band saw, jointer, planer, etc. Those who went from my kind of setup (ridgid) to a cabinet saw, is it night and day difference?
By the way, I am thinking of going to a 3HP grizzly, 52 inch table. Would appreciate any thoughts....
By the way, I am thinking of going to a 3HP grizzly, 52 inch table. Would appreciate any thoughts....
Upgrading the table saw, not sure why I'm hesitating
air compressor
I am having trouble with my air compressor it has started running a long time before shutting off. It has a hard time keeping up the air pressure. It is pretty old 5 HP with 80 gal. Tank
air compressor
Jointer Roller?
I am trying to work on my jointer technique focusing on transferring pressure to the outfeed table as soon as possible. I still have trouble sometimes not pushing down on the back push pad will feeding the stock forward resulting in thinner boards never really getting flat.
Has anyone ever seen or tried a roller directly on the outfeed side of the blades to keep that pressure consistent as the board comes off of the blades?
Has anyone ever seen or tried a roller directly on the outfeed side of the blades to keep that pressure consistent as the board comes off of the blades?
Jointer Roller?
Sandpaper for drum sander
vendredi 27 février 2015
For those of you with a drum sander, what grit do you primarily use on the sander? Some people have indicated that they mostly use coarse sandpaper, but is that 80 grit, 100 grit, or ???
Mike
Mike
Sandpaper for drum sander
Dust deputy - Tool hose to DD setup?
I need input on your favorite connection and hose from the Dust Deputy to the tool. I am using a Ridgid WD1450 to a DD and want to know what connections and hose used that people love. I am dedicating it to my sanding station using a PC390 and other palm sanders.
So I would love to move on from my 2 1/2" Ridgid hose b/c it wasn't really flexible enough for me and was kinda bulky when sanding.
I've seen folks use the green Festool hose and remark on the flexibility of it and some using Fein hoses, and some using 1 1/4 to 1 7/8 and some 2 1/2 hoses. So I'm asking the community for their input on what was most comfortable and most of all, the connection used for the DD to tool hose.
Thanks!
So I would love to move on from my 2 1/2" Ridgid hose b/c it wasn't really flexible enough for me and was kinda bulky when sanding.
I've seen folks use the green Festool hose and remark on the flexibility of it and some using Fein hoses, and some using 1 1/4 to 1 7/8 and some 2 1/2 hoses. So I'm asking the community for their input on what was most comfortable and most of all, the connection used for the DD to tool hose.
Thanks!
Dust deputy - Tool hose to DD setup?
Counterfeit/Knockoff Tools
Glen Drake talks about a couple hammers sold as his coming back for repair.
The only problem is they weren't made by him.
http://ift.tt/1EG7JpA
jtk
The only problem is they weren't made by him.
http://ift.tt/1EG7JpA
jtk
Counterfeit/Knockoff Tools
The Next James Brown?
I saw this and images on the Godfather of Soul ran through my brain. (for those who find American Idol abhorrent, give kid this a chance)
The Next James Brown?
Set Up a CBN Grinding Station
Reading about Derek's grinding station and rational for a dry sharpening system made me want to at least try the CBN wheel. I already use a Spyderco stone for my finishing stone unless I feel the job needs the Shaptons.
I decided to go the easy way and ordered a Tormek BGM-100 kit. The kit makes it easy, you just need the kit, a couple of hunks of ply, and about thirty minutes if you are old and slow to have a working grinding station.
I decided to go the easy way and ordered a Tormek BGM-100 kit. The kit makes it easy, you just need the kit, a couple of hunks of ply, and about thirty minutes if you are old and slow to have a working grinding station.
Set Up a CBN Grinding Station
Engraving glass problem?
I am attempting to learn how to engrave on glass, and right off the bat I noticed vertical lines down the glass in the same spots down two totally different pictures I sent over to the engraver. I'm hoping it's me not my Trotec speedy 300. Then I tried to see what it would do at the other end of the playing field and got lines as well. :confused: Anyone got any Ideas? Here are some pics...DSC00003.jpgHere are the two totally different pics lined up.DSC00002.jpg
DSC00004.jpg Thanks for any help...Jeff.
DSC00004.jpg Thanks for any help...Jeff.
Engraving glass problem?
Woodworking Shows
As a hobby woodworker, I was thinking of attending a wood working show to get a better look at some of the sliding table saws and larger band saws that I can't view locally. Can anyone make a suggestion on what may be the better show to attend for someone like myself? I was all set to go to the AWFS this year in July but now I'm wondering if the IWF would be a better fit for myself. I'm not sure on this as I've never attended one of these shows before. I would appreciate any advice form people who have attended both.
thanks,
john
thanks,
john
Woodworking Shows
looking for giant plastic bag for a toy chest
I need a plastic bag big enough to fit a toy chest 19 " tall, 22" deep and 40" long. My truck bed isn't covered so I don't want the chest to get wet if it's raining or the roads are slushy.
I live west of Minneapolis so a local source would be nice.
Thanks,
Bill
I live west of Minneapolis so a local source would be nice.
Thanks,
Bill
looking for giant plastic bag for a toy chest
Bandsaw tire installation
I have had mixed results replacing the rubber tires on my Laguna LT18 450. This model was manufactured in Italy; mine was made in 1994. The urethane tire that I had lying around forever would not stay on the top wheel.
The first rubber tire would not take a crown using 80 grit stearate treated sand paper glued to a board. The tire remained flat in the center even though I spent hours spinning the wheel by hand. So I moved on to the lower wheel. While it was spinning under power, the sand paper also would not remove material except a slight amount from the very edge which appeared polished. I saw elsewhere that some have used a lathe chisel to cut away the surface. This did work but the chisel grabbed several times and took some small divots.
I ordered a new pair of tires and began again and had the same problem using the sand paper. It just would not cut the rubber even though I kept replacing it with fresh stock. Finally, I tried a rasp. It was the cat’s meow and cut away the rubber in a matter of minutes. I used an inexpensive one that I have had for over 30 years and kept it moving slightly as it cut in order to avoid tracks in the rubber which can be a problem with machine made rasps. Maybe others have used this technique. I would highly recommend it.
The first rubber tire would not take a crown using 80 grit stearate treated sand paper glued to a board. The tire remained flat in the center even though I spent hours spinning the wheel by hand. So I moved on to the lower wheel. While it was spinning under power, the sand paper also would not remove material except a slight amount from the very edge which appeared polished. I saw elsewhere that some have used a lathe chisel to cut away the surface. This did work but the chisel grabbed several times and took some small divots.
I ordered a new pair of tires and began again and had the same problem using the sand paper. It just would not cut the rubber even though I kept replacing it with fresh stock. Finally, I tried a rasp. It was the cat’s meow and cut away the rubber in a matter of minutes. I used an inexpensive one that I have had for over 30 years and kept it moving slightly as it cut in order to avoid tracks in the rubber which can be a problem with machine made rasps. Maybe others have used this technique. I would highly recommend it.
Bandsaw tire installation
Lead nut off lead screw on Grizzly GO453z planer table
I bought this planer new, and have had it for about eight months. The table always had some play to it while unlocked, and I thought that was meant to be. I now just discovered that this whole time only 3 out of the 4 lead screws supporting my table are connected. The lead screw on the back left of the machine wiggles when I push on it, and that's the corner of the table that moves, so the nut is obviously not connected. I've used this planer many times and haven't had much issues with use other than snipe, but I can't make adjustments because the table is impossible to get parallel with the cutterhead due to the movememt, it's about 5/100" off.
Im going to call Grizzly technical support, but they're only available Monday through Friday. Does anyone know how to fix this?
Im going to call Grizzly technical support, but they're only available Monday through Friday. Does anyone know how to fix this?
Lead nut off lead screw on Grizzly GO453z planer table
Car transmission ?
Is it hard on a car transmission to put it in drive while car rolling in reverse, w/o coming to complete stop?
Car transmission ?
CAMaster Two Day Training Class
CAMaster is proud to announce that we are offering a two day training session here in Cartersville, GA on Thursday and Friday, March 26th and 27th.
The training session will be held just a few minutes from our facility at the Country Inn & Suites 43 State Route 20 Spur, Cartersville, GA 30121. The training session will be a mix of classroom time and “at the machine” demonstrations.
Requirements:
In order to better serve and train the attendees, we require that attendees meet the following criteria:
With advance notice, some software titles (or upgrades) can be purchased at the training session.
Class Topics: (Thursday)
(Morning)
CAMaster Operation & WinCNC Startup:
Covers the operation of your CAMaster machine, including initial startup of a new machine and includes many of the most often used commands required for daily operation.
CAMaster Maintenance, Adjusting & Calibrating:
Covers routine, and possibly not so routine maintenance operations and adjustments, schedules for those items and some checks to make sure your machine is calibrated and cutting at its best.
Multi Tool Operation with FTC, ATC or X-3:
This class covers the fine points of multi tool use on a CAMaster and the WinCNC macros that operate behind the scenes to allow these actions to take place.
(Afternoon)
Cut 2D, VCarve Pro Design and Import. This class will cover (from the beginning) 2D File creation, material setup, vector line, shape and text creation, import and modification using the “Create, Transform, Edit and Offset” options available in Cut 2D and VCarve Pro.
Class Topics: (Friday)
(Morning)
This class will cover selection of vectors, material setup, bit selection, feed and speed settings and toolpath creation and saving using the options available in Cut2D and VCarve Pro. Strategies for virtually all Cut 2D options will be discussed.
Note: Vector creation, transform and toolpath options available in Cut2D are an exact subset of those in VCarve Pro and are taught together.
(Afternoon)
This class covers the 2.5D toolpath operations available in VCarve Pro that are not available in Cut 2D, including V carving, fluting, prism carving and textures.
Advanced Toolpath Testing: (How to Get the Right Tool and Speeds for the Job)
This class explains the difference between the different types and styles of bit geometries and how to get these different bits cutting properly for your material and machine.
Hold Down (Vacuum and Fixtures) & Strategies:
Includes use of vacuum, spoil boards, masks and jigs for parts location with vacuum. Also the same as it applies to T slots, sacrificial holding fixtures and special purpose, high vacuum fixtures.
Note: Vectric has announced that there will be version upgrades to many of their titles coming in the near future. All classes will be taught with and will include instruction on any and all of these new features as they are released.
Cost and Registration:
$300 per person for the two day session. Lunch will be provided. Seats are limited to ensure small class size.
Class times are as follows for both days:
8:30 AM - 9:00 AM Coffee And Donuts
9:00 AM -12:00 PM Training Session
12:00 PM -1:00 PM Lunch
1:00 PM - 4:30 PM Training Session
To register online, click here: Click to Register
Once you have filled in the registration form, you may pay for the training by calling in to CAMaster: (770) 334-2448 and paying with a credit card. Seats for this session will be on a first come, first served basis, based on actual payment date, not enrollment date.
The Country Inn has a “CAMaster Training” room rate that you may wish to take advantage of by calling: (770) 386-5888. There are also numerous other lodging facilities nearby.
The training session will be held just a few minutes from our facility at the Country Inn & Suites 43 State Route 20 Spur, Cartersville, GA 30121. The training session will be a mix of classroom time and “at the machine” demonstrations.
Requirements:
In order to better serve and train the attendees, we require that attendees meet the following criteria:
- Be a current CAMaster machine owner/operator or have a machine on order.
- Have a copy of either Cut2D, VCarve Pro or Aspire. Please note that this particular training session does not include Aspire 3D training but will include the 2D vector and toolpath tools that are included in Aspire.
- Have a copy of the software installed on a laptop that they will use during the training session
With advance notice, some software titles (or upgrades) can be purchased at the training session.
Class Topics: (Thursday)
(Morning)
CAMaster Operation & WinCNC Startup:
Covers the operation of your CAMaster machine, including initial startup of a new machine and includes many of the most often used commands required for daily operation.
CAMaster Maintenance, Adjusting & Calibrating:
Covers routine, and possibly not so routine maintenance operations and adjustments, schedules for those items and some checks to make sure your machine is calibrated and cutting at its best.
Multi Tool Operation with FTC, ATC or X-3:
This class covers the fine points of multi tool use on a CAMaster and the WinCNC macros that operate behind the scenes to allow these actions to take place.
(Afternoon)
Cut 2D, VCarve Pro Design and Import. This class will cover (from the beginning) 2D File creation, material setup, vector line, shape and text creation, import and modification using the “Create, Transform, Edit and Offset” options available in Cut 2D and VCarve Pro.
Class Topics: (Friday)
(Morning)
This class will cover selection of vectors, material setup, bit selection, feed and speed settings and toolpath creation and saving using the options available in Cut2D and VCarve Pro. Strategies for virtually all Cut 2D options will be discussed.
Note: Vector creation, transform and toolpath options available in Cut2D are an exact subset of those in VCarve Pro and are taught together.
(Afternoon)
This class covers the 2.5D toolpath operations available in VCarve Pro that are not available in Cut 2D, including V carving, fluting, prism carving and textures.
Advanced Toolpath Testing: (How to Get the Right Tool and Speeds for the Job)
This class explains the difference between the different types and styles of bit geometries and how to get these different bits cutting properly for your material and machine.
Hold Down (Vacuum and Fixtures) & Strategies:
Includes use of vacuum, spoil boards, masks and jigs for parts location with vacuum. Also the same as it applies to T slots, sacrificial holding fixtures and special purpose, high vacuum fixtures.
Note: Vectric has announced that there will be version upgrades to many of their titles coming in the near future. All classes will be taught with and will include instruction on any and all of these new features as they are released.
Cost and Registration:
$300 per person for the two day session. Lunch will be provided. Seats are limited to ensure small class size.
Class times are as follows for both days:
8:30 AM - 9:00 AM Coffee And Donuts
9:00 AM -12:00 PM Training Session
12:00 PM -1:00 PM Lunch
1:00 PM - 4:30 PM Training Session
To register online, click here: Click to Register
Once you have filled in the registration form, you may pay for the training by calling in to CAMaster: (770) 334-2448 and paying with a credit card. Seats for this session will be on a first come, first served basis, based on actual payment date, not enrollment date.
The Country Inn has a “CAMaster Training” room rate that you may wish to take advantage of by calling: (770) 386-5888. There are also numerous other lodging facilities nearby.
CAMaster Two Day Training Class
Aspire Version 8 Released by Vectric
The Vectric Team is very pleased to announce the launch of Aspire
version 8.0 for existing customers.
Aspire V8 is an upgrade from Aspire V4.5, the large jump in version
numbers is because we have brought the version numbering schemes for
Aspire and VCarve Pro into line for this release.
The latest version of Aspire includes significant enhancements and many
completely new features across all areas of the product. The Clipart
included with the program has had a further 150 models ($1500 value)
added to it. Powerful new drawing tools like the Vector Texture function
make it easy to create wave based textured panels and realistic grain
backgrounds. To make 3D layout simpler and more intuitive you can now access
component editing functions from directly in the 3D view. There are also
improvements to sculpting and smoothing for 3D shapes and an attractive
shadow shading option to further enhance the rendering of the 3D models.
For the toolpath side of the program there are additions to many of the
strategies to increase flexibility and finish quality, such as
Last Pass Allowance on Profiling, Pass Depth control for Pocketing,
new boundary selection modes for 3D models and many other additions
including the ability to merge toolpaths using the same tool into a
single program.
With this release, we are moving to online distribution of the software
via an account on the online Vectric Portal. After purchasing the upgrade,
you will immediately receive your licence key and download for Aspire 8.When
Vectric have processed your order, you will receive a further email inviting
you to register on the Vectric Portal from where you can download your
clipart.
When purchasing the upgrade you will be offered the option to purchase a DVD
Media Pack as well. The DVD Media Pack just contains a duplicate of the data
that is accessible from your Portal Account on DVD. Over the next 2-3 weeks we
will be completing the production of the disks. Once the disks become
available we will make an announcement and start shipping them to anyone
who has purchased the DVD Media Pack.
There are videos introducing the new features available
from the Vectric website at ...
http://ift.tt/1E185J0
The Aspire Trial download from the Vectric web site has also been updated
to V8 and the trial can be downloaded from ...
http://ift.tt/1DBwbJn
The Vectric Team
version 8.0 for existing customers.
Aspire V8 is an upgrade from Aspire V4.5, the large jump in version
numbers is because we have brought the version numbering schemes for
Aspire and VCarve Pro into line for this release.
The latest version of Aspire includes significant enhancements and many
completely new features across all areas of the product. The Clipart
included with the program has had a further 150 models ($1500 value)
added to it. Powerful new drawing tools like the Vector Texture function
make it easy to create wave based textured panels and realistic grain
backgrounds. To make 3D layout simpler and more intuitive you can now access
component editing functions from directly in the 3D view. There are also
improvements to sculpting and smoothing for 3D shapes and an attractive
shadow shading option to further enhance the rendering of the 3D models.
For the toolpath side of the program there are additions to many of the
strategies to increase flexibility and finish quality, such as
Last Pass Allowance on Profiling, Pass Depth control for Pocketing,
new boundary selection modes for 3D models and many other additions
including the ability to merge toolpaths using the same tool into a
single program.
With this release, we are moving to online distribution of the software
via an account on the online Vectric Portal. After purchasing the upgrade,
you will immediately receive your licence key and download for Aspire 8.When
Vectric have processed your order, you will receive a further email inviting
you to register on the Vectric Portal from where you can download your
clipart.
When purchasing the upgrade you will be offered the option to purchase a DVD
Media Pack as well. The DVD Media Pack just contains a duplicate of the data
that is accessible from your Portal Account on DVD. Over the next 2-3 weeks we
will be completing the production of the disks. Once the disks become
available we will make an announcement and start shipping them to anyone
who has purchased the DVD Media Pack.
There are videos introducing the new features available
from the Vectric website at ...
http://ift.tt/1E185J0
The Aspire Trial download from the Vectric web site has also been updated
to V8 and the trial can be downloaded from ...
http://ift.tt/1DBwbJn
The Vectric Team
Aspire Version 8 Released by Vectric
chair cushion
I build mission oak rockers and finish them off with a cushion seat. I have experimented with combinations of 2" foams of different densities. I have tried 4" hi-density but am not pleased. The cushions I make end up at 4" thick which works well..any ideas how to make a comfortable cushion for my chairs..:o
chair cushion
Question about vision magnifiers
This question is in reference to magnifying my vision when sharpening saws. I use a pair of magnifying eyeglasses to sharpen saws. I don't know the magnifying power, but the focal length (distance from my eyes to the saw teeth is from 7" to 12". Within that range the teeth are sharp and well defined. Closer, or farther than that and the saw teeth get blurry.
I would like to buy one of the "Donegan OptiVisor Headband Magnifier". Donegan has a wide range of magnifications available. Each of the magnification levels specifies an associate focal length. Anywhere from 4" to 20" depending on the magnification.
My question is this: If I buy a Donegan 2x magnification head band with 10" focal length, and use this while wearing my magnifying glasses, with 7" to 12" focal clarity, will the overall focal length still be 10". Or do focal lengths of glasses plus lenses have some other factor to be considered?
Obviously my eyesight is not what it used to be. But anyway getting old has its benefits, I just don't remember what they are.
I would like to buy one of the "Donegan OptiVisor Headband Magnifier". Donegan has a wide range of magnifications available. Each of the magnification levels specifies an associate focal length. Anywhere from 4" to 20" depending on the magnification.
My question is this: If I buy a Donegan 2x magnification head band with 10" focal length, and use this while wearing my magnifying glasses, with 7" to 12" focal clarity, will the overall focal length still be 10". Or do focal lengths of glasses plus lenses have some other factor to be considered?
Obviously my eyesight is not what it used to be. But anyway getting old has its benefits, I just don't remember what they are.
Question about vision magnifiers
Extreme cold takes out the wall of my shop!
I was down in the basement this morning loading the stove when my wife came in the house and I could hear her crying. She came down in the basement saying I'm sorry over and over.
I got her calmed down and it came out that she had ran into my shop wall with the car. The clutch pedal had stuck to the frozen floor mat and she bent down to pick it up when it popped up. Unfortunately it was in gear, took out the corner of the building between the garage door and the entry door.
I told her it was OK and got her to laugh at herself, sent her on her way to work.
But here is the funny thing. She is an office manager at a body shop and when she came home yesterday she was talking about a lady that came in after running into her garage, and was saying "How can you run into your garage?"
Karma is a cruel mistress..... And quick!
Larry
PS: That was this morning, I got it back together good enough till spring......
I got her calmed down and it came out that she had ran into my shop wall with the car. The clutch pedal had stuck to the frozen floor mat and she bent down to pick it up when it popped up. Unfortunately it was in gear, took out the corner of the building between the garage door and the entry door.
I told her it was OK and got her to laugh at herself, sent her on her way to work.
But here is the funny thing. She is an office manager at a body shop and when she came home yesterday she was talking about a lady that came in after running into her garage, and was saying "How can you run into your garage?"
Karma is a cruel mistress..... And quick!
Larry
PS: That was this morning, I got it back together good enough till spring......
Extreme cold takes out the wall of my shop!
Grain Direction on Mid-Century Modern Blanket Chest
I'm getting close to actually starting to cut wood on a blanket/hope chest for my daughter. I've been totally over-thinking the design, but there is one big decision I need to make right from the start. My daughter really likes mid-century modern design, and I've come up with a clean design that she likes on paper (or Sketchup). It is simply a box with the sides sloped in by 10deg on four turned legs. I think I'm going to use plywood for the box sides for the uniformity and the clean look of no joints (both speaking more to my ability to do a fairly large glue up than to anything else). I'm planning on using either Baltic Birch or Cherry ply and darkening with stain or dye. So my crazy idea is to orient the grain on the plywood vertically instead of horizontally. A part of me thinks that with the relativly subtle grain of the plywood (which I think is appropriate for the design) it won't matter much. But it could be a unique design feature or it could look atrocious or just wrong. I'm open to any of your thoughts on this idea.
Grain Direction on Mid-Century Modern Blanket Chest
Lee Valley hammers
I have bought three hammers from LV over the last 1/2 year and all of them have loose handles.:eek: Two Warrington pattern and one claw hammer. They must store them in very dry warehouse. I am mentioning it because I thought it was a norm nowadays, but just got a plane vanilla Grace brass hammer via Amazon and that one was tight. Grace brass hammer is nice btw.
I am sure I could just return them, but have not bothered to call LV and I already drilled hanging holes in the handles.
I am sure I could just return them, but have not bothered to call LV and I already drilled hanging holes in the handles.
Lee Valley hammers
Anyone need a digital SLR?
Hello all,
In preparation for our cross country move, and my sanity in general, I'm thinning the herd of tools and accessories, as well as tools of my other ventures and interests. As such, I've decided to sell off most of my photography equipment. All of these are fully functional, used, and come with a lens and original box. I started shooting Nikon, then went to Sony for a short time, sold off both systems when I got into Canon, and now am divesting of my Canon gear as I transition back to Sony.
Canon Equipment-
Canon XTi-
Older SLR, around 5,000 shutter actuations. This is a great intro SLR camera. It's older, but still takes amazing photos. The body is clean, the only issue with it is some light scratching on the focusing screen from cleaning which is only visible in direct light, such as pointing the lens directly at a light. This will come with a Canon 28-90 f/4-5.6 zoom lens, strap, battery and charger. $225
Canon T2i-
Great SLR camera, with around 6,000 actuations. This is the same camera as the T3i, same imager and everything, but without the flip out screen. It has been modified with the Magic Lantern firmware, which gives it a better screen arrangement with DB meters and active peaking and histogram for videography, as well as the ability to output raw imager data in video mode. This is a pretty capable little camera, and comes with a battery grip which extends the battery life by using two batteries as well as giving you an IR remote trigger and vertical shutter release. It will also come with two batteries, a charger, a strap and a Canon 18-55 IS kit lens. $350
Canon EF 50mm f/1.8 I-
This is a tack sharp, inexpensive prime lens for the canon EF autofocus mount. This unit is the more rare, original version with the metal lens mount. Will come with caps. $140
Canon EF 50mm f/1.8 II-
Same lens as above, same optics, but with a plastic lens mount. Much more common. $90
Sony Equipment-
Sony A3000 mirrorless-
This is a great camera, with the same imager as the A6000, but without all the bells and whistles. It also has a larger, SLR size body for those wanting to go to a mirrorless system but keep a larger body. This is a great camera, refurbished by Sony. I purchased it, ran around 200 shots, and just didn't like the electronic viewfinder. The resolution on the EVF wasn't high enough for me, as I use mostly manual focus lenses and found it difficult to get fine focus with it. This camera will come with a strap, battery, charger and E mount 18-55 OSS lens. $250
Sony A6000 mirrorless-
This is really one of the best cameras I've ever used. This was purchased new a couple months ago, and turned out to be a really, really nice camera. It has some of the best low light responsiveness I've ever experienced, and the bright EVF and focus peaking makes using older manual focus lenses a treat. My regular lens mounted to this was an old Canon FD 50mm f/1.4 SSC. It is really a pleasure to use, and I will greatly miss it, but I just upgraded to a Sony A7 full frame mirrorless and can't afford to have a backup body right now, nor do I shoot professionally anymore to need it. This camera will come with a strap, battery, charger and 16-50 OSS power zoom lens. $575
Sony 55-210 OSS zoom lens-
This is a pretty nice telephoto zoom. It is near new, used a handful of times on the A6000. Comes with caps and hood, in original box. $200
All prices are including shipping to lower 48, and below *bay pricing. All these cameras are in great working condition. If you're in or around the high desert in California, I could meet up with you to play a bit before purchase.
Thanks,
Michael
In preparation for our cross country move, and my sanity in general, I'm thinning the herd of tools and accessories, as well as tools of my other ventures and interests. As such, I've decided to sell off most of my photography equipment. All of these are fully functional, used, and come with a lens and original box. I started shooting Nikon, then went to Sony for a short time, sold off both systems when I got into Canon, and now am divesting of my Canon gear as I transition back to Sony.
Canon Equipment-
Canon XTi-
Older SLR, around 5,000 shutter actuations. This is a great intro SLR camera. It's older, but still takes amazing photos. The body is clean, the only issue with it is some light scratching on the focusing screen from cleaning which is only visible in direct light, such as pointing the lens directly at a light. This will come with a Canon 28-90 f/4-5.6 zoom lens, strap, battery and charger. $225
Canon T2i-
Great SLR camera, with around 6,000 actuations. This is the same camera as the T3i, same imager and everything, but without the flip out screen. It has been modified with the Magic Lantern firmware, which gives it a better screen arrangement with DB meters and active peaking and histogram for videography, as well as the ability to output raw imager data in video mode. This is a pretty capable little camera, and comes with a battery grip which extends the battery life by using two batteries as well as giving you an IR remote trigger and vertical shutter release. It will also come with two batteries, a charger, a strap and a Canon 18-55 IS kit lens. $350
Canon EF 50mm f/1.8 I-
This is a tack sharp, inexpensive prime lens for the canon EF autofocus mount. This unit is the more rare, original version with the metal lens mount. Will come with caps. $140
Canon EF 50mm f/1.8 II-
Same lens as above, same optics, but with a plastic lens mount. Much more common. $90
Sony Equipment-
Sony A3000 mirrorless-
This is a great camera, with the same imager as the A6000, but without all the bells and whistles. It also has a larger, SLR size body for those wanting to go to a mirrorless system but keep a larger body. This is a great camera, refurbished by Sony. I purchased it, ran around 200 shots, and just didn't like the electronic viewfinder. The resolution on the EVF wasn't high enough for me, as I use mostly manual focus lenses and found it difficult to get fine focus with it. This camera will come with a strap, battery, charger and E mount 18-55 OSS lens. $250
Sony A6000 mirrorless-
This is really one of the best cameras I've ever used. This was purchased new a couple months ago, and turned out to be a really, really nice camera. It has some of the best low light responsiveness I've ever experienced, and the bright EVF and focus peaking makes using older manual focus lenses a treat. My regular lens mounted to this was an old Canon FD 50mm f/1.4 SSC. It is really a pleasure to use, and I will greatly miss it, but I just upgraded to a Sony A7 full frame mirrorless and can't afford to have a backup body right now, nor do I shoot professionally anymore to need it. This camera will come with a strap, battery, charger and 16-50 OSS power zoom lens. $575
Sony 55-210 OSS zoom lens-
This is a pretty nice telephoto zoom. It is near new, used a handful of times on the A6000. Comes with caps and hood, in original box. $200
All prices are including shipping to lower 48, and below *bay pricing. All these cameras are in great working condition. If you're in or around the high desert in California, I could meet up with you to play a bit before purchase.
Thanks,
Michael
Anyone need a digital SLR?
Price of a first time lathe
I turned a couple of bowls on my friends Powermatic lathe. It was a monster of a thing. Now I've got the bug! : ) What should I look for in a lathe to start out on? I'm not really interested in spindles or anything like that. If I put $500 towards a used machine could I get something that would be good? Any ideas on models/brands/etc.?
Thanks
Thanks
Price of a first time lathe
Turning multiple pens at one time
Has anyone tried this before. I was thinking, why not chuck up multiple pens and then turn and finish, all at once. Would certainly increase productivity
Turning multiple pens at one time
Loose tote on a wooden plane ???
Have been restoring a very nice wooden plane with W. Butcher iron and cap iron.
I notice that the tote is just a tiny bit loose where it is inset into the body of the plane. Sure don't want this to get worse, and was wondering what the best way to tighten the tote.
It could be that the low humidity during the winter months has something to do with the dimension.
I just don't want to do somethin' stupid.
Suggestions from the group?
Bill
I notice that the tote is just a tiny bit loose where it is inset into the body of the plane. Sure don't want this to get worse, and was wondering what the best way to tighten the tote.
It could be that the low humidity during the winter months has something to do with the dimension.
I just don't want to do somethin' stupid.
Suggestions from the group?
Bill
Loose tote on a wooden plane ???
beismeyer fence is not flat? saw marks as I am ripping?
I have a new to me delta unisaw, came with a bies fence, yesterday I was using it for the first time and noticed the fence has a wave to it, I held a straight edge to it and it looks like 1/16 or so dip in the one spot. how can I fix this??
2015-02-26 17.43.07.jpg
also I bought a new Oshlun SBW-100024 10-Inch 24 Tooth ATB Ripping Saw Blade. and when ripping walnut I get saw marks (not horrible but you can see them), I have not had a rip blade before always used a combination, is this just the blade or is it a saw issue?
I check the blade run out and whether everything is parrallel. it all seemed ok. could probably used tuned up at some point, I did adjust the fence to be parallel to miter slot as well as I could.
2015-02-26 17.43.07.jpg
also I bought a new Oshlun SBW-100024 10-Inch 24 Tooth ATB Ripping Saw Blade. and when ripping walnut I get saw marks (not horrible but you can see them), I have not had a rip blade before always used a combination, is this just the blade or is it a saw issue?
I check the blade run out and whether everything is parrallel. it all seemed ok. could probably used tuned up at some point, I did adjust the fence to be parallel to miter slot as well as I could.
beismeyer fence is not flat? saw marks as I am ripping?
WTB Portercable 556 Biscuit joiner fence
If you have an old one of these machines that you want to part out let me know. Thanks! Jess
WTB Portercable 556 Biscuit joiner fence
Dado Shims
Used my dado blade the other day while making a new circle cutting jig. Same old problem I've had before and I've read about other places, them durned 'ol shims slipping into the threads.
I see some magnetic ones with a 3/4 bore are they worth the money spent?
Question about shim placement also. Does it matter where I put the shims in the stack? Next to arbor flange vs further out in the stack?
I see some magnetic ones with a 3/4 bore are they worth the money spent?
Question about shim placement also. Does it matter where I put the shims in the stack? Next to arbor flange vs further out in the stack?
Dado Shims
Any one ever had this problem?
About a week ago I was in the process of turning when all of a sudden I would hit the start switch and the lathe (Nova Comet 2) would hesitate or require me to turn the piece to get the motor going. Then I noticed that under a load the motor would slow down more than seemed right. Then-- just listening to the motor while under no load the speed would vary.
Called Teknatool service and the tech there decided, with out a shadow of a doubt the variable speed control was the culprit, or to be much more particular a wire to the speed controller was the problem. Now, I'm not an electrical engineer but it would seem to me that controlling the speed on an electrical motor requires resistance which creates heat so---chances are the wire is going bad due to heat build up. Basically it's frying. I haven't pulled the thing apart yet seeing as though the tech promised me a new control switch but it seems to be kind of slow forthcoming. Just wondering about the logic of all this and whether I want to schedule the exploratory surgery just to take a look. With the snow and cold weather down here not being able to spin wood is making me cranky.
Called Teknatool service and the tech there decided, with out a shadow of a doubt the variable speed control was the culprit, or to be much more particular a wire to the speed controller was the problem. Now, I'm not an electrical engineer but it would seem to me that controlling the speed on an electrical motor requires resistance which creates heat so---chances are the wire is going bad due to heat build up. Basically it's frying. I haven't pulled the thing apart yet seeing as though the tech promised me a new control switch but it seems to be kind of slow forthcoming. Just wondering about the logic of all this and whether I want to schedule the exploratory surgery just to take a look. With the snow and cold weather down here not being able to spin wood is making me cranky.
Any one ever had this problem?
Replacement Blade Wont Fit My #8
I have an early type Stanley 8 that needed a new chip breaker. I just went with the LV combo and bought a blade too. Very nice, heavy duty, great finish. However, its a bit thicker than the standard. I have moved the frog back as far as it will go but I still can't get it to project. The opening stays filled no matter how I adjust things. Should I be having this trouble or is it common for these blades to require plane fettling?
Replacement Blade Wont Fit My #8
Domino DF500 vs DF700
I just upgraded my Domino from the DF500 to the DF700. This post takes nothing away from the DF500. I loved it and it worked wonderfully on small as well as larger items that required tenons up to about 3/8" thick.
There are a lot of debates here about which machine is more appropriate and the consensus is that unless you are doing doors and tables, the DF500 is a more appropriate choice. I disagree with this assessment.
- The DF700 is not significantly heavier than the DF500. That is, it's comfortable and stable to use even on skinny stock. I was surprised to find this.
- The D style handle is easier for me to use on the 700 than the 500. Gripping the barrel of the 500 near the plug worked fine, but when I felt the D handle of the 700, I realize how great it is. Anyone who has used a Domino knows that keeping it plunging straight and true takes a little concentration and control on end grain cuts. The 700 makes it easier than the 500, IMHO.
- The 700 has a height offset up to 50mm. This was probably the biggest sticking point with me on the 500. The 500 can go higher if you remove the dovetailed plugs, but the 700 enables this greater offset out of the box.
- The plunge depth adjuster is better designed and more intuitive IMHO on the bigger unit. On more than one occasion I over plunged my df500 because of that switch.
- Instead of 2 pins on the fence, there are 6, and they lock out of the way in any pattern you wish. This makes repeated offsets extremely customizable. In fact, this enables the machine to be used to make longer stopped slots for splines. I know there are other ways to skin this cat, but this eliminates having to set up another machine.
- Here's the big kicker. I purchased a small bit adapter from Seneca (the guys who make the Domiplate). This allows you to use the 500 cutters. So, cutting mortises at 5mm or 6mm width is still entirely doable.
There are a lot of debates here about which machine is more appropriate and the consensus is that unless you are doing doors and tables, the DF500 is a more appropriate choice. I disagree with this assessment.
- The DF700 is not significantly heavier than the DF500. That is, it's comfortable and stable to use even on skinny stock. I was surprised to find this.
- The D style handle is easier for me to use on the 700 than the 500. Gripping the barrel of the 500 near the plug worked fine, but when I felt the D handle of the 700, I realize how great it is. Anyone who has used a Domino knows that keeping it plunging straight and true takes a little concentration and control on end grain cuts. The 700 makes it easier than the 500, IMHO.
- The 700 has a height offset up to 50mm. This was probably the biggest sticking point with me on the 500. The 500 can go higher if you remove the dovetailed plugs, but the 700 enables this greater offset out of the box.
- The plunge depth adjuster is better designed and more intuitive IMHO on the bigger unit. On more than one occasion I over plunged my df500 because of that switch.
- Instead of 2 pins on the fence, there are 6, and they lock out of the way in any pattern you wish. This makes repeated offsets extremely customizable. In fact, this enables the machine to be used to make longer stopped slots for splines. I know there are other ways to skin this cat, but this eliminates having to set up another machine.
- Here's the big kicker. I purchased a small bit adapter from Seneca (the guys who make the Domiplate). This allows you to use the 500 cutters. So, cutting mortises at 5mm or 6mm width is still entirely doable.
Domino DF500 vs DF700
Powermatic planer dust collection problem
I am working on a 20 inch Powermatic 290HH planer about 7 years old. I am getting chips falling down onto the feed table while in use. I have messed with the plastic chip cutter. I am starting to think it is a suction volume problem. Recently rotated the cutters (132) and cleaned and adjusted the rollers. Feed and cuts are nice but the chips not being extracted in an issue. Any input would be appreciated. Thanks in advance, Kevin
Powermatic planer dust collection problem
Moved from 55 to 45 Bronze #4
Thought I'd post up my results of moving to a 45 degree pitch from a 55 on my #4 smoother.
In American hardwoods working with the standard pitch I was able to reduce tear out over the 55 degree pitch for reasons I did not expect.
In my use of the 55 degree pitch I found that attempting to utilise a very tight setting on the chip breaker was resulting in 'accordian' chips' which indicate an over-tight chip breaker well ahead of the range that was actually considered tight by sources such as David Weaver. The result was that I either needed to take a very light cut or back off the chip breaker, the former was producing a tear-out free cut but was taking forever to actually finish a tabletop.
So I moved to the 45 degree pitch and found that the plane is easier to set and achieve a rolled up chip or one that comes out of the plane mostly curled. No crinkles! I could set the chip breaker to the right number and take a decent cut while maintaining a tear out free finish in American hardwoods. The plane with a tight chip breaker is still easier to push than the high pitch with a looser setting.
In American hardwoods working with the standard pitch I was able to reduce tear out over the 55 degree pitch for reasons I did not expect.
In my use of the 55 degree pitch I found that attempting to utilise a very tight setting on the chip breaker was resulting in 'accordian' chips' which indicate an over-tight chip breaker well ahead of the range that was actually considered tight by sources such as David Weaver. The result was that I either needed to take a very light cut or back off the chip breaker, the former was producing a tear-out free cut but was taking forever to actually finish a tabletop.
So I moved to the 45 degree pitch and found that the plane is easier to set and achieve a rolled up chip or one that comes out of the plane mostly curled. No crinkles! I could set the chip breaker to the right number and take a decent cut while maintaining a tear out free finish in American hardwoods. The plane with a tight chip breaker is still easier to push than the high pitch with a looser setting.
Moved from 55 to 45 Bronze #4
Cheap Home Depot Finish Nails
I opened up a box of Grip Rite finish nails that was purchased at Home Depot recently and was disappointed to find that the quality is not what was expected, at least not what I purchased elsewhere in the past. The heads were sloppy, the metal seemed to bend more easily and they were coated in a thick layer of dirty grease. What happened to the quality of finish nails of yesterday or is this just another cheap offering by Home Depot? BTW, I'm finding more and more that Home Depot is offering less and less in the way of quality merchandise.
Cheap Home Depot Finish Nails
Build a classy picture frame!
I filmed the build on my YouTube Channel. Please check it out! http://ift.tt/1LRf8GY
I was commissioned to build this frame and thought I would take you guys along for the ride.
The build consists of poplar stock, glass, black vinyl decals, glue
Primary construction method was domino reinforced miters. The glass was held in with a rabbit.
If you have any more comments, questions or suggestions please leave them here or on YouTube.
ETSY SHOP
I was commissioned to build this frame and thought I would take you guys along for the ride.
The build consists of poplar stock, glass, black vinyl decals, glue
Primary construction method was domino reinforced miters. The glass was held in with a rabbit.
If you have any more comments, questions or suggestions please leave them here or on YouTube.
ETSY SHOP
Build a classy picture frame!
Weather Tech Floor Mats.
I would love to hear from anyone with Actual experience with the WeatherTech car floor liners.
I am getting a new car and want to keep the snow off the floor.
I am getting a new car and want to keep the snow off the floor.
Weather Tech Floor Mats.
Wtb: Need a depth gage:
Hello,
I am looking for a depth gage for a NO. 50 Stanley Combination Plane. I purchased this from a Creeker years ago and have never had the depth gage for it. Could someone point me in the correct place to purchase one? This plane is in perfect condition but according to the pamphlet that came with the plane there is suppose to be a depth gage in the box. It looks like a small shoe that you see on other Stanley planes. It is letter "F" if you have the pamphlet.
Thank you
Ben
I am looking for a depth gage for a NO. 50 Stanley Combination Plane. I purchased this from a Creeker years ago and have never had the depth gage for it. Could someone point me in the correct place to purchase one? This plane is in perfect condition but according to the pamphlet that came with the plane there is suppose to be a depth gage in the box. It looks like a small shoe that you see on other Stanley planes. It is letter "F" if you have the pamphlet.
Thank you
Ben
Wtb: Need a depth gage:
Engraving Pionite
Good morning all,
I'm working on a project that requires me to engrave molds for a thermoform machine. We are using Pionite's DecoCor Phenolic Core Laminate on Vision's 2550 rotary engraver; however I can not seem to find a reference anywhere for recommended settings to use with this material. I'm hoping that maybe one of the members here has had some experiance with this and could point me in the right direction.
Thank you all
I'm working on a project that requires me to engrave molds for a thermoform machine. We are using Pionite's DecoCor Phenolic Core Laminate on Vision's 2550 rotary engraver; however I can not seem to find a reference anywhere for recommended settings to use with this material. I'm hoping that maybe one of the members here has had some experiance with this and could point me in the right direction.
Thank you all
Engraving Pionite
Opinion on a Yost vise
Hey, everyone. I've run across a vise that looks interesting to put on the basic bench I want to build (old countertop). My setup will hopefully be somewhat temporary, and once we're out of an apartment I plan to build a solid bench to work on.
Any opinions on the 6.5" Yost Hobby Woodworking Vise? I couldn't really find any reviews on it.
I'd probably use it to start practicing skills like planing and dovetails on smaller/narrower pieces or scraps. I'm still pretty new to using hand tools, let alone woodworking in general. But wanted to get an idea if this was decent for the money, or if I should just avoid it and get something more useful.
Any opinions on the 6.5" Yost Hobby Woodworking Vise? I couldn't really find any reviews on it.
I'd probably use it to start practicing skills like planing and dovetails on smaller/narrower pieces or scraps. I'm still pretty new to using hand tools, let alone woodworking in general. But wanted to get an idea if this was decent for the money, or if I should just avoid it and get something more useful.
Opinion on a Yost vise
Miter Saw Box surface
jeudi 26 février 2015
I recently acquired a Millers Falls Langdon Acme Miter Saw Box 74. What a great upgrade from my Stanley 150. I replace the wooden surface on the 150 from time to time. But the #74's horizontal face is a textured, steel surface. It's like evenly spaced pin pricks. I presume they are original, intended to keep the work-piece from sliding around. Yet, I'm concerned about the steel pricks marring work pieces. I could cover that with wood. It would require slots for the work-holders.
Question: Does it work well to add a piece of wood to the horizontal face, or is the textured steel the way to go? Do you use other surface materials?
Thanks.
Question: Does it work well to add a piece of wood to the horizontal face, or is the textured steel the way to go? Do you use other surface materials?
Thanks.
Miter Saw Box surface
New (old) Tools
Some of you may have seen my thread earlier asking about drum sanders. After hearing your advice, I started researching drum sanders and found the a new one would be fairly expensive. So I turned to Craigslist. I set up a few RSS feeds for different searches and last night got a hit.
A guy only about three miles from me was selling four tools, including a Jet 16-32 Plus drum sander. The price was pretty good, so I called him immediately - his ad had only been up three hours. I went over to see the tools (about 9pm), but he wouldn't break the group - it was buy all four or none. So I bought all four. Today, I rented a lift gate truck and picked up the tools. So here's what I got.
The Jet 16-32 Plus
Jet-drum-sander-01.jpg
An 8" jointer with helical cutting head. The brand is "Pioneer" which I never heard of but it seems to be a decent jointer.
Jointer-01.jpg
Jointer-02.jpg
A Rikon disk and belt sander in rough shape. May not be working.
Rikon-01.jpg
And an older 2HP dust collector. I have no need for this since I have a dust collector in my shop already so I'll try to sell it. Everything else, I plan to keep.
Dust-collector-01.jpg
We ran everything except the Rikon sander so at least I know the motors are good. It was a good thing I went over to his place that night because the next day when I went to pick up the stuff, he told me that people were calling and offering him more than he asked for - more than I paid him.
So what did all this cost me??? $500. I think that's a pretty good, especially for the Jet drum sander and the jointer.
Mike
A guy only about three miles from me was selling four tools, including a Jet 16-32 Plus drum sander. The price was pretty good, so I called him immediately - his ad had only been up three hours. I went over to see the tools (about 9pm), but he wouldn't break the group - it was buy all four or none. So I bought all four. Today, I rented a lift gate truck and picked up the tools. So here's what I got.
The Jet 16-32 Plus
Jet-drum-sander-01.jpg
An 8" jointer with helical cutting head. The brand is "Pioneer" which I never heard of but it seems to be a decent jointer.
Jointer-01.jpg
Jointer-02.jpg
A Rikon disk and belt sander in rough shape. May not be working.
Rikon-01.jpg
And an older 2HP dust collector. I have no need for this since I have a dust collector in my shop already so I'll try to sell it. Everything else, I plan to keep.
Dust-collector-01.jpg
We ran everything except the Rikon sander so at least I know the motors are good. It was a good thing I went over to his place that night because the next day when I went to pick up the stuff, he told me that people were calling and offering him more than he asked for - more than I paid him.
So what did all this cost me??? $500. I think that's a pretty good, especially for the Jet drum sander and the jointer.
Mike
New (old) Tools
Power Carvers / Which One?
I am considering trying my hand at power carving in wood and in my review of different equipment it seems that the Foredom 1/3HP TX and the ½ hp Mastercarver Pro flex-shaft get good reviews in the flex shaft units. Also in the air driven systems the Turbo Carver or the SCM 400xs seem to get good reviews as well. I am looking for recommendations of what I should use or get as I have never done any power carving. I have done a couple of chip carvings and one relief carving by hand. Basically I am new to this and I don’t mind spending the money on the tools but I hate to spend money on the wrong ones (or even used if anyone has something). Any help on the right tools (including the burs) would be appreciated.
Also are there any DVD’s out there that anyone would recommend to help me in the learning process? Or even a class in the Mid Michigan area. As I have look at a lot on U-Tube but being I haven’t tried it one can get the wrong information sometimes from some of those videos as in what is really the right way to start?
Thanks Richard
Also are there any DVD’s out there that anyone would recommend to help me in the learning process? Or even a class in the Mid Michigan area. As I have look at a lot on U-Tube but being I haven’t tried it one can get the wrong information sometimes from some of those videos as in what is really the right way to start?
Thanks Richard
Power Carvers / Which One?
Painting Kitchen Cabinets
Anybody have any suggestions on how to mask the interior of the cabinets. What do you use? Where do you install it? How do you secure it?
Any ideas would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Any ideas would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Painting Kitchen Cabinets
Sjobergs Benches
Do any of you have a Sjoberg bench? I saw one at a good deal on close out and was wondering if they are any good. They look like decent made products.
Sjobergs Benches
Surprised, dissapointed, puzzeled
:confused: I made two dovetailed drawers today. Both have four tails/pins at each corner. The wood was straight grain (quarter sawn) fir. A softwood. I was trying out two new sets of chisels. Actually one chisel from each set. One is the Veritas PM-V11 at 1/2" the other is LN A-2 also at 1/2". Both sets are fairly new. The LNs I have had for about one year and have used frequently to cut dovetails in Walnut, Ash, and Cherry. No problems with the LNs. Normal dulling and touch-up sharpening. The Veritas PM-V11 is new and this is the first actual use, other than doodling around just to see how they behaved. Both chisels have a 30 deg bevel with an additional 2 deg micro-bevel. In other words the cutting edge is 32 deg. Both are sharpened to 8000 grit with a waterstone and then polished with Veritas green compound on a piece of MDF.
When marking for the dovetail baselines (using a wheel gauge) I noted that the Summer wood rings (dark) were noticeably harder than the Spring wood rings (light). Hard enough that my wheel gauge did not want to score them. Basically the wheel edge rode over the dark rings and left little, if any, scoring. I did not pay much attention to this. Just noticed it.
Cutting the dovetails to the marked lines was no problem. Then came the chopping out of the waste. This is when things became surprising. I did the first drawer with the LN A-2 chisel and the second drawer with the Veritas PM-V11 chisel. I just wanted to compare the edge retention of both. What a surprise. Half way through the first drawer the LN A-2 was looking very bad. The edge had failed badly. I could see and fingernail feel the ragged edge. It had notches in the edge, rounded over. Serious enough that I needed to go down to 1000 grit waterstone to clean it up, and thence to the 8000 grit and green rouge polish. When I finished the first drawer I again had the some ragged edge and had to redo the edge with 1000 grit followed by 8000 grit, then the green rouge polish. To say the least I was rather unhappy and puzzled about the poor performance of the LN A-2 chisel.
I then started the second drawer using the Veritas PM-V11 chisel. Lo and behold, I had exactly the same results with the Veritas PM-V11 chisel. Halfway through the drawer and the edge was ragged, in the same way as the LN chisel, and I had to redo the edge. At the end of the second drawer the edge was equally bad as at the halfway point. In other words the edge retention seemed to be the same with both the LN A-2 and the Veritas PM-V11 with this wood.
This was all a great surprise to me. Is the Summer wood (dark/hard) in qtr sawn fir really hard enough to cause this edge failure? Is something else at work here? I really don't know. Has anybody else experienced similar edge failures under similar conditions? Any ideas?
When marking for the dovetail baselines (using a wheel gauge) I noted that the Summer wood rings (dark) were noticeably harder than the Spring wood rings (light). Hard enough that my wheel gauge did not want to score them. Basically the wheel edge rode over the dark rings and left little, if any, scoring. I did not pay much attention to this. Just noticed it.
Cutting the dovetails to the marked lines was no problem. Then came the chopping out of the waste. This is when things became surprising. I did the first drawer with the LN A-2 chisel and the second drawer with the Veritas PM-V11 chisel. I just wanted to compare the edge retention of both. What a surprise. Half way through the first drawer the LN A-2 was looking very bad. The edge had failed badly. I could see and fingernail feel the ragged edge. It had notches in the edge, rounded over. Serious enough that I needed to go down to 1000 grit waterstone to clean it up, and thence to the 8000 grit and green rouge polish. When I finished the first drawer I again had the some ragged edge and had to redo the edge with 1000 grit followed by 8000 grit, then the green rouge polish. To say the least I was rather unhappy and puzzled about the poor performance of the LN A-2 chisel.
I then started the second drawer using the Veritas PM-V11 chisel. Lo and behold, I had exactly the same results with the Veritas PM-V11 chisel. Halfway through the drawer and the edge was ragged, in the same way as the LN chisel, and I had to redo the edge. At the end of the second drawer the edge was equally bad as at the halfway point. In other words the edge retention seemed to be the same with both the LN A-2 and the Veritas PM-V11 with this wood.
This was all a great surprise to me. Is the Summer wood (dark/hard) in qtr sawn fir really hard enough to cause this edge failure? Is something else at work here? I really don't know. Has anybody else experienced similar edge failures under similar conditions? Any ideas?
Surprised, dissapointed, puzzeled
Surprised, dissapointed, puzzeled
:confused: I made two dovetailed drawers today. Both have four tails/pins at each corner. The wood was straight grain (quarter sawn) fir. A softwood. I was trying out two new sets of chisels. Actually one chisel from each set. One is the Veritas PM-V11 at 1/2" the other is LN A-2 also at 1/2". Both sets are fairly new. The LNs I have had for about one year and have used frequently to cut dovetails in Walnut, Ash, and Cherry. No problems with the LNs. Normal dulling and touch-up sharpening. The Veritas PM-V11 is new and this is the first actual use, other than doodling around just to see how they behaved. Both chisels have a 30 deg bevel with an additional 2 deg micro-bevel. In other words the cutting edge is 32 deg. Both are sharpened to 8000 grit with a waterstone and then polished with Veritas green compound on a piece of MDF.
When marking for the dovetail baselines (using a wheel gauge) I noted that the Summer wood rings (dark) were noticeably harder than the Spring wood rings (light). Hard enough that my wheel gauge did not want to score them. Basically the wheel edge rode over the dark rings and left little, if any, scoring. I did not pay much attention to this. Just noticed it.
Cutting the dovetails to the marked lines was no problem. Then came the chopping out of the waste. This is when things became surprising. I did the first drawer with the LN A-2 chisel and the second drawer with the Veritas PM-V11 chisel. I just wanted to compare the edge retention of both. What a surprise. Half way through the first drawer the LN A-2 was looking very bad. The edge had failed badly. I could see and fingernail feel the ragged edge. It had notches in the edge, rounded over. Serious enough that I needed to go down to 1000 grit waterstone to clean it up, and thence to the 8000 grit and green rouge polish. When I finished the first drawer I again had the some ragged edge and had to redo the edge with 1000 grit followed by 8000 grit, then the green rouge polish. To say the least I was rather unhappy and puzzled about the poor performance of the LN A-2 chisel.
I then started the second drawer using the Veritas PM-V11 chisel. Lo and behold, I had exactly the same results with the Veritas PM-V11 chisel. Halfway through the drawer and the edge was ragged, in the same way as the LN chisel, and I had to redo the edge. At the end of the second drawer the edge was equally bad as at the halfway point. In other words the edge retention seemed to be the same with both the LN A-2 and the Veritas PM-V11 with this wood.
This was all a great surprise to me. Is the Summer wood (dark/hard) in qtr sawn fir really hard enough to cause this edge failure? Is something else at work here? I really don't know. Has anybody else experienced similar edge failures under similar conditions? Any ideas?
When marking for the dovetail baselines (using a wheel gauge) I noted that the Summer wood rings (dark) were noticeably harder than the Spring wood rings (light). Hard enough that my wheel gauge did not want to score them. Basically the wheel edge rode over the dark rings and left little, if any, scoring. I did not pay much attention to this. Just noticed it.
Cutting the dovetails to the marked lines was no problem. Then came the chopping out of the waste. This is when things became surprising. I did the first drawer with the LN A-2 chisel and the second drawer with the Veritas PM-V11 chisel. I just wanted to compare the edge retention of both. What a surprise. Half way through the first drawer the LN A-2 was looking very bad. The edge had failed badly. I could see and fingernail feel the ragged edge. It had notches in the edge, rounded over. Serious enough that I needed to go down to 1000 grit waterstone to clean it up, and thence to the 8000 grit and green rouge polish. When I finished the first drawer I again had the some ragged edge and had to redo the edge with 1000 grit followed by 8000 grit, then the green rouge polish. To say the least I was rather unhappy and puzzled about the poor performance of the LN A-2 chisel.
I then started the second drawer using the Veritas PM-V11 chisel. Lo and behold, I had exactly the same results with the Veritas PM-V11 chisel. Halfway through the drawer and the edge was ragged, in the same way as the LN chisel, and I had to redo the edge. At the end of the second drawer the edge was equally bad as at the halfway point. In other words the edge retention seemed to be the same with both the LN A-2 and the Veritas PM-V11 with this wood.
This was all a great surprise to me. Is the Summer wood (dark/hard) in qtr sawn fir really hard enough to cause this edge failure? Is something else at work here? I really don't know. Has anybody else experienced similar edge failures under similar conditions? Any ideas?
Surprised, dissapointed, puzzeled
Blower for laser: inside or outside?
Just want to do a quick poll of business laser operators that have their blowers located outside (roof or pad mounted) versus having the blower indoors (but still venting outside).
We have our 2 blowers inside in a semi-enclosed cabinet a few feet from the lasers, venting outside. Tends to be noisy, I'm trying to convince our owner to relocate them outside (possibly when we upgrade the blower).
We have our 2 blowers inside in a semi-enclosed cabinet a few feet from the lasers, venting outside. Tends to be noisy, I'm trying to convince our owner to relocate them outside (possibly when we upgrade the blower).
Blower for laser: inside or outside?
Spalted Oak HF
This HF is from a highly splatted piece of oak that came from an oak tree that was destroyed by the 2013 tornado in Joplin MO. It is 11 ¾”W x 5 ½”H. There is a lot of different character in this piece of wood. This piece was turned end grain. Along with the spalting, it has some bug holes, it had a limb cap and also some bark inclusions. I have purposely left everything natural and unfilled. Once I turned the outside of the form I reverse chucked it and wrapped it in shrink-wrap to make sure it stayed together. Because of the “spaltiness” of the wood, the wall thickness is not consistent from the sides down to the bottom. At this point I have only dipped it (twice) in my blend of oils. I like the way of the different characteristics of the wood appear with just the oil finish and am not planning on buffing it. I have attached several pictures so you can get a good look at the wood. C&C welcomed.
IMG_6601.jpg IMG_6602.jpg IMG_6604.jpg IMG_6605.jpg
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Spalted Oak HF
Is there an easy way to fix this?
At some point in this planes history the owner decided to bend the spring steel under the cam lever. I've put up with it for a while but I am now annoyed enough that I would like to fix it because the cam lever flops around and you have to push down on the lever cap when reinstalling it. Is there an easy way to fix this?
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Is there an easy way to fix this?
Patsy Cline Anyone?
When not in 60s-70s classic rock, my fave shop music is Patsy. Her voice really matured the last few years. Such a tragedy that she is gone.
Karen Carpenter also had the effortless range and depth that Patsy had.
There are many others, I'm sure.
It is a shame that most singers these days feel obliged to scream. My wife watches The Voice, et al and I continually complain about singers trying to do something (via screaming) that they are simply not able to do.
Karen Carpenter also had the effortless range and depth that Patsy had.
There are many others, I'm sure.
It is a shame that most singers these days feel obliged to scream. My wife watches The Voice, et al and I continually complain about singers trying to do something (via screaming) that they are simply not able to do.
Patsy Cline Anyone?
Renovation Complete!!!
After many weeks, filling a 20 yard dumpster, lots of cash, and completely tearing up my left knee (you may be aware I had surgery on it last Friday), and much distress over learning how to post pictures, here are the before and after pictures.
I am mildly embarrassed at the slop that had accumulated here---but we know how that is, don't we;)?
The shop is part of our basement, 20 by 20. All the junk accumulated over the last 9 years (since I started WW)
The tour is left to right around the shop extras @ the end.
This is the first half of before and afters....
thank you for your attention:)Before NNW Corner.jpgAfter NNW Corner.jpgBefore NE Corner.jpgAfter NE Corner.jpgBefore East Wall.jpgAfter East Wall.jpgBefore South Wall.jpgAfter South Wall.jpg
I am mildly embarrassed at the slop that had accumulated here---but we know how that is, don't we;)?
The shop is part of our basement, 20 by 20. All the junk accumulated over the last 9 years (since I started WW)
The tour is left to right around the shop extras @ the end.
This is the first half of before and afters....
thank you for your attention:)Before NNW Corner.jpgAfter NNW Corner.jpgBefore NE Corner.jpgAfter NE Corner.jpgBefore East Wall.jpgAfter East Wall.jpgBefore South Wall.jpgAfter South Wall.jpg
Renovation Complete!!!
Origination Location for Lee Valley
For US orders, where is the origination location for Lee Valley? Not sure how the shipping in the USA works. Thanks.
Origination Location for Lee Valley
Chisel junkie. I want a set of 750s
I have an obsession with nice socket chisels. I buy them constantly at flea markets and such. Anyway, I bought a big lot of tools last week from an auction. It had 2 awesome stanley 750 chisels, well after playing with them a little, I decided I wanna get a nice set of them. What should I be looking to pay for a nice complete set of 750s.
Chisel junkie. I want a set of 750s
Simple aluminum extrusion router table fence.
My father built this many years ago for his router table. It is a very simple but effective design.
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The fence consists of an Aluminum extrusion that he cut in half. A piece of angle iron. A sacrificial UHML fence. A couple of toggle clamps for securing the fence to the table top.
The T slots in the aluminum extrusion makes it very quick and easy to adjust the opening on the fence. The toggle clamps make the fence very quick and easy to adjust on the table. He cut off a standard shop vac attachment that he mounted behind the fence for dust collection.
DSC06848-1.jpg
DSC06852-1.jpg
DSC06855-1.jpg
The fence consists of an Aluminum extrusion that he cut in half. A piece of angle iron. A sacrificial UHML fence. A couple of toggle clamps for securing the fence to the table top.
The T slots in the aluminum extrusion makes it very quick and easy to adjust the opening on the fence. The toggle clamps make the fence very quick and easy to adjust on the table. He cut off a standard shop vac attachment that he mounted behind the fence for dust collection.
Simple aluminum extrusion router table fence.
table top separation question
Last summer I built a dresser out of white oak. Just recently the 3 pieces I used on the top started to separate.
The gap between 2 of the pieces has opened up to about an 1/8 of an inch. On the underneath side of the top
I placed several clete which I both glue and screwed to the top to avoid this happening. Could a more experience
woodworker tell me where I went wrong? Is it the dry winter air that is causing this or is it something else? I'm
not sure what to do to correct this and I surely don't want to have the same thing happening to future projects.
Thanks in advance.:confused:
The gap between 2 of the pieces has opened up to about an 1/8 of an inch. On the underneath side of the top
I placed several clete which I both glue and screwed to the top to avoid this happening. Could a more experience
woodworker tell me where I went wrong? Is it the dry winter air that is causing this or is it something else? I'm
not sure what to do to correct this and I surely don't want to have the same thing happening to future projects.
Thanks in advance.:confused:
table top separation question
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